Gran Turismo 7 (PS4/PS5) - Fanatec Recommended Settings

Dominic BrennanDominic Brennan Member, Administrator
edited March 2022 in Gran Turismo

General Notes:

  • The settings below are considered to be reasonable baseline values for Gran Turismo 7. They might not suit all tastes and driving styles, but they are a good starting point. Bear in mind that Gran Turismo 7 uses a dynamic physics engine covering a broad range of cars and tracks, meaning that these settings might not be 'optimal' for every possible driving scenario.
  • In order to apply the suggested settings correctly, it is important to assign both the Tuning Menu values AND the suggested In-Game settings together.
  • These settings assume you have updated all firmware from the latest Fanatec Driver package (available on the front page of the Fanatec website).
  • If you cannot access all the settings shown below, you are probably in the Standard Tuning Menu. To switch to the Advanced Tuning Menu, first enter the menu (short-press the Tuning button once), then press and hold the Tuning button for about four seconds.
  • You may see additional Tuning Menu settings depending on your connected devices. These additional settings are not relevant to force feedback, and are not listed here.
  • The settings for the Gran Turismo DD Pro are suitable for 5 Nm and 8 Nm (Boost Kit 180).
  • The settings for the Podium Racing Wheel F1 assume you are in High Torque Mode. In Low Torque Mode, the same settings can be used, but with a higher FF value.
  • If you wish to have a more 'weighty' feeling to your Gran Turismo DD Pro or Podium Racing Wheel F1 feedback, then higher values of NDP and NFR can be used. Higher values can also help to reduce steering oscillation on some cars. But consider that higher values reduces rotation speed and can reduce fine detail.
  • Gran Turismo 7 features an understeer vibration effect that can generate some mechanical noise, particularly with the CSL Elite Wheel Base + (due to the belt drive). This can be reduced by lowering the FEI value, but we recommend that FEI is kept as high as possible to retain other areas of force feedback detail.


Gran Turismo DD Pro

Tuning Menu Settings:

  • SEN Auto
  • FF 100
  • FFS Peak
  • NDP 38
  • NFR Off
  • NIN Off
  • INT 2
  • FEI 100
  • FOR 100
  • SPR 100
  • DPR 100

In-Game Settings:

  • Assist Settings:
    • Countersteering Assistance: Off
  • Controller Settings:
    • Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5
    • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1


Podium Racing Wheel F1

Tuning Menu Settings:

  • SEN Auto
  • FF 42
  • FFS Peak
  • NDP 35
  • NFR 3
  • NIN Off
  • INT 1
  • FEI 100
  • FOR 100
  • SPR 100
  • DPR 100

In-Game Settings:

  • Assist Settings:
    • Countersteering Assistance: Off
  • Controller Settings:
    • Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5
    • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1


CSL Elite Wheel Base +

Tuning Menu Settings:

  • SEN Auto
  • FF 100
  • DRI -2
  • FEI 50
  • FOR 100
  • SPR 100
  • DPR 100

In-Game Settings:

  • Assist Settings:
    • Countersteering Assistance: Off
  • Controller Settings:
    • Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5
    • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1


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Comments

  • Is the Pedals v3 rumble supported in GT7?

  • edited March 2022

    Thanks!

  • The recommended in-game max torque 5 feels a bit weak for GT DD Pro 8Nm, almost the same as 5Nm with setting 10. So I opted for 8, feels much better. But I'm not sure how FFB works in GT7, will this result in FFB clipping? Can you tell when clipping happens? What does it feel like?

  • Yes, that will result in Clipping.

    I would suggest Max Torque value of 6 which already even is on the edge to Clipping in extreme scenarios but is fine for most of the time.


  • How is the setting value translated to actual torque? Does 6 mean 6Nm or something else?

  • Only Polyphony Digital knows that answer...

    But no, it's not Nm.

    But nobody knows...

  • Not trying the recommended settings, BUT these are my settings. Just throwing this out here.

    Using PS5/PS4 Compatibility mode.

    Podium Racing Wheel F1

    Tuning Menu Settings:

    • SEN 720
    • FF 85
    • FFS Linear
    • NDP 67
    • NFR 15
    • NIN 5
    • INT 1
    • FEI 90
    • FOR 100
    • SPR Off
    • DPR 100

    In-Game Settings:

    • Assist Settings:
      • Countersteering Assistance: Off
    • Controller Settings:
      • Force Feedback Max. Torque: 2
      • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 10


  • The best settings are already revealed. Thanks!

    Now if everyone could set this up and forget about it, and focus on learning the FFB language instead of tinkering with magic formulas.

    If the FF strength is too strong, just lower FF in the wheelbase.

  • I am getting an oscillation when idle or at high speed straights. What can be done to tune this out?

  • Increase NDP.

    I use NDP Off, and never let go of the wheel.

  • Sascha MeyerSascha Meyer Member
    edited March 2022

    For me the FF is a bit weak with the 8nm Boostkit.

    Don t know what you mean with clipping tbh. Thought the wheel can handle it all ... ?

  • I was just asking how does clipping feel like? Because with setting 8 I still can’t tell, if I crash or spin out there will be a obviously larger force than usual, which I think is the sign there isn’t clipping for normal driving? Unless I thought it the wrong way?

  • Imagine the peaks in FFB being cut off - that's what it feels like. The wheel becomes heavy and stays equally heavy no matter what happens in a corner - that's clipping. You simply lose detail in high FFB situations.

    Don't go beyond 5 in max torque in-game. If that with 8 Nm and FF 100 feels too weak, even with high downforce cars, with a 28 cm wheel, something's wrong and you should contact support. Or you're built like a gorilla and a beginner in simracing - in that case, keep practicing.

    With a bigger and heavier wheel, with slow cars, more than 8 Nm might be needed, especially for beginners.

  • Nathaniel WuNathaniel Wu Member
    edited March 2022

    OK, thanks for the explanation. I was indeed using a much heavier 320mm wheel than the standard 280mm GT wheel so I guess that's why. I'll try putting the GT wheel on and see how that feels. BTW I'm no beginner, just not familiar with these technical details outside the track and new to dd systems.

  • Interesting! Let us know how it feels with the much smaller GT wheel. It should feel much heavier since you have less leverage.

  • DD Pro: I'm experiencing a significantly different FFB between the blue PS5 Mode and the violet compatibility mode when the same settings are applied for both modes (compatibility mode is much weaker). What is the correct mode for the settings above?

  • Of course the PS5 mode.

    The compatibility mode would indicate a CSL Elite PS4 Base but the GT DD PRO is officially supported so the native PS5/PS4 mode has to be used for GT7.

  • WarmRedWarmRed Member
    edited March 2022

    In the game, you can only set the profile to Fanatec DD Pro and CSL Elite. What should you set as a DD1/PS4 user? Rather DD Pro or CSL Elite? Does it make any difference at all? GT7 has chosen CSL Elite as the default, so I left it that way. Why is the Podium DD1 not represented in the profiles as an official PS4/5 steering wheel?

  • Using the recommended settings on podium DD1 with drivehub, and getting resistance at zero degrees, so in the centre. It’s like there’s a small wall that you have to pass through to go from left to right? Also getting small oscillations in the centre. Are settings for with torque key or not?

  • Would you suggest also for csl elite wheelbase going up to 6 for max torque in-game ?

    Also is there any benefit by raising the for/spr/dpr to 120 when max torque is 5 or 6 in-game?

  • Marc HässigMarc Hässig Member
    edited March 2022

    Its really strange...

    I am used to a simucube 2 pro on PC and I am trying a lot of stuff to get my GT DD pro to do something I like... so far without success.

    Ingame Torquevalue 5 is way to weak even for 8nm in my opinion.

    No matter the torque value ingame, be it 2 or 8, I have no detailed FFB information on my wheel at all in corners with sportcars. Its just a constant force without any details - it feels like clipping but on a ingame torque value of 2 thats impossible.

    On the other hand - while driving streetcars I have ffb data while cornering even with a torquevalue of 10. So I can't confirm there is clipping with a torquevalue higher than 5 in GT7.

    Now is this a driver issue or is the FFB of GT7 that bad? btw. it was the same in GTsport already.

  • It says in GT7 online manual that there should be a DD1 profile in controllers but there is only a csl and did pro profile. If I pause the game mid race and go to settings it shows the csl wheel when I have a dd1 using a Porsche rim, apm, etc

    i assume thos is a GT7 issue and not a Fanatec issue ?

  • edited March 2022

    I'm on CSL elite f1, after awhile of messing with settings I have it feeling somewhat ok, everything close to recommended but something just feels off.

    Steering feels really light i guess compared to almost every other racing game on PS. Even GT sport has alot more weight behind the steering while still being smooth. If I try to match that feeling it sounds like a jackhammer.

    This feels like a downgrade to me. Hopefully an update or something can fix this.

  • I’m still trying to play around with the settings on the wheel base to find what I like. But what I do notice is that whenever I am going 5-13 mph in gt7 my wheel starts to vibrate like CRAZY. I’ve tried messing around with settings to see if I can get rid of that vibration but nothing works. Also when I’m doing hairpins my car always spins out because my wheel vibrates like crazy at those low speeds. Any help?

  • Hello everyone, I am looking for help.

     I think I have a problem with my gt dd pro on GT7, I have a lag between the action I have on the game and the feeling on the steering wheel of about 1 sec... Is this normal?

  • Can you actually drive realistically with clutch and H-shifter with the heel & toe technique in GT7? I want to be sure before the conversion of the rig that this works.

  • Make sure your TV is set to GAME MODE. If you set it to movie mode or picture mode or whatever, you'll get massive input lag. I had the same problem, and realized what it was after 10 minutes.

    I have the H shifter, but didn't get my load cell brake yet. So I don't have a clutch. On cars with H shifter, yes it works fine, even without the clutch. But I still can't launch the car properly without a clutch. Cars that have paddle shifters don't work with the H shifter.

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