Took delivery of my GT DD Pro exactly a week ago. It is my first wheel after spending a couple of decades racing with a controller. I DL’d the latest firmware and entered Fanatec’s recommended settings and immediately realized I was going to need some time to get comfortable with the transition.
I’ve spent some time researching the settings on the wheel and spending multiple hours trying different combinations along with altering my driving style to suit the wheel and pedals. I’m at a point now where my lap times are competitive with my controller times (time trials).
However, no matter what I do, I can’t be competitive in online, multiplayer, races with the wheel. The wheel doesn’t give me the ability to correct the ‘taps’ from other cars when racing in close proximity. I simply spin out of control with bumps that are easily corrected with the controller. It’s extremely frustrating because I enjoy everything about the wheel but I spend the majority of my time in multiplayer.
I wanted to get the feedback from those that have more experience racing multiplayer online with a wheel, is this behavior normal? Are you experiencing the same issue on GT7? Is this something that could, potentially, get corrected via a wheel firmware update or game update?
I am not a huge fan of the fanatec recommended settings and it seems others feel the same way. There is a youtube video a couple comments back which is better than the fanatec settings. It makes the car easier to "catch" and is a little more forgiving. I have began to mess with the settings and have found that the FEI, FOR, and SPR should be adjusted as well. I race online and have had taps and its not that violent, but my FEI is lower than the recommended settings. If you turn down the Force Effect Intensity, it may help here. I did find a better experience when in game sensitivity was moved from 1 to 10 and seems to be common with most people with fanatec wheels.
I don't see any reason to every fiddle with anything else but FF, INT and NDP.
FF for me depends on the car. If it's difficult to control, more FF is needed.
INT 6 feels smooth but still detailed enough. 2 as recommended is fine as well but a bit buzzy and harsh. Off is unpleasant.
NDP to me seems to be a safety setting to avoid oscillation and injury from snaps. It definitely makes it harder to catch and correct slides. Off for me.
Also, I don't see any reason to ever have any other in-game settings than the recommended, 5/1.
I've tried almost every configuration I've found in this thread, including the ones in the videos.
I can't find any that give me grip information when I'm in a long corner. You feel the jolt when you have already lost the car, but I lack that feeling of hardness before losing it that allows you to rectify.
For example, this week I would like to have felt that feeling at turns 6 and 7 of the Interlagos circuit.
Could someone tell me what parameter could be adjusted for that? Or is it directly that GT7 does not give that feeling and cannot be achieved?
Unfortunately the new physics in GT7 are lacking in that department. Hopefully it will be better with future updates. Nothing in the wheelbase settings will help to a great level.
Yep, when you reach optimal slip angle and the smallest possible turn radius for a given speed, the FFB is just smooth/dead/"clipping". In most circumstances, make no sudden movements here and steer gently with brake/throttle, and get back to the lively part of FFB before flooring the throttle. Many people use too much throttle here and complain about "snap oversteer".
With road cars, it might be necessary to never venture into "smooth territory" - too slippery.
Not sure yet if people just need to adapt or if PD needs to fix it. I like it much more than the FFB in GTS. In GT7, it's very clear where the limit is - tyre squeal isn't needed.
There has been improvements bit overall it still feels too video game to me. I'm really looking forward to going PC based this year. It could be a beautiful game if they would take note of what others are doing but hardcore doesn't fit their respective audience.
I have a powerful lust for triple monitors and a more realistic effort towards sim racing that GT7 won't supply I guess. I'll play it for nostalgic reasons but that's about it. I compete in GT7 but certain things about the racing structure I can't get over no matter how much I try.
I'm fortunate enough to be able to put in the seat time so it makes sense to go a little bigger with my efforts.
I found much more better settings for myself when I switched off NDP completely and lowered FF to 65-75. Other settings as recommended. By this settings I have got much more realistic feel what's happening with the car. It is easier to catch oversteer too.
I do prefer lighter steering (also in real sports car you are not fighting with the feel) because it's easier for me react quickly. With such settings I'm having much more fun to drive in GT7 now. Also I can perform quicker lap times.
Yep, NDP off, and INT as low as possible (1-6). However, I vary FF depending on car. With low downforce cars, I use 100%, and with high downforce cars, I use 50%. It's great to be able to adapt on the fly in-game.
I'm running comp. mode on the GT DD Pro PS4. Driver 439, I even reset the tuning menu. i went from 5 to 2/3 ingame and it was too light at 2 and too much at 3.
I am using the recommended except FF at 55. I have found on every game to drop FF 50-55%, atm (possibly 50-60%). Ex: Corvette drives more like a Corvette. The ffb feels more realistic. I can't understand, why I can't hit the recommended settings or even get close. The recommended settings are not even useable on my base and the detail has been lost into a black hole. It's like I getting ready to go from the norm to winning a world wide arm building competition in days.
You can leave the in-game settings at 5/1 and change only FF in the wheel. With road cars, I mostly use 100%, because I need to feel what's going on very clearly, to not spin out. With race cars, it's more point-and-shoot quickly because of the high downforce - so I use around 40-60% there. And then there's everything inbetween, depending on the car, circumstances and personal preference.
But yes, I agree, 100% in a race car really isn't necessary. At least I just get fatigued and slow - there's no benefit.
I noticed one car mission that 100 was nowhere near enough. PD still has some work, getting a vehicle high centered a cone. Some are hit and some are a big miss on FF.
100% on 8Nm with a 28cm wheel 1kg wheel? I haven't found a car where this isn't plenty and just perfect. 5Nm would however not be enough for me with all cars. And with a bigger and heavier wheel, I'd want more than 8Nm with the sketchiest road cars.
i bought the car Dodge SRT X VGT. Unfortunately, it is no longer drivable from a speed of 400km/h. The steering wheel (DD Pro) shakes very much from one side to the other.
As soon as you steer something against it gets better. However, it is no longer possible to drive the car straight with over 400km/h.
In another forum there was talk of errors in the physics or even a force feedback oscillation.
So far this car is the only one I have that is this fast and causes these problems. It's a shame. The car cost 1,000,000 credits and I can't use it.
My settings are 100% taken from the recommendation of the first post.
Picture above for reference, settings below are for my rig in the picture (DD1)
never really posted my settings before as I’ve never felt they were great. Clearly won’t be to everyone’s taste but I’ve had my DD1 for nearly three years and it’s the best Feeling I’ve had from it on Gt7/Sport I’ve had.
installed driver 4.40 this morning, did the settings, had a 5 hour session on Race C, qualifying lap so far is 1.24,771. Think I can get it down to low 1.24s or high 1.23s which for me is awesome, I’m normally 3 seconds off the top ten.
Race C settings on Peugeot RCZ
sens: 540
FFB: 25 when qualifying and when warming up, knocking down to 22 once in race and settled (if I use 22 when warming up, I bin it, need to get the feel then I can back off to stop fatigue setting in)
FF Scale: Peak
NDP: Off
Nat Fri: Off
Nat Inertia: Off
Ffb Inter: 1 or 2
FE int: 100
FES: 100 or 110
Spring: Off
DPR:100 or 110
BLi: 90
BRF: 45
in game settings
Torque: 4 to 6 your preference is best here
Controller sens: 1 to 4 your own preference is best here again, can’t stress how important it is to test controller sens and get right for YOU !!!
First time in sim racing with a wheel since…25 years!
I wanted to share with you my first feeling after having tested my brand new GT DD PRO 8nm pack with load cell brake pedal and shifter/handbrake (everything is hard mounted on a cockpit, well plugged, firmwares of hard/software up to date)
I tested this on tuesday on PS5 Gran Turismo 7 and I was really disappointed…
The steering seems very soft despite the recommended settings (the force feedback back is present but really really soft), I have no feedback in the steering wheel in case of change of surface (asphalt, dirt, bumpers…) and nothing at all in case of collision with another vehicle or a wall !
is it the same for you ? Nothing when you have a shock (competitors or wall)? When you change of surface (asphalt, grass…)?
try my settings above but where I use 22-25 FFB on my podium, set your GT DD PRO around 70, if still not strong enough then increase it. Don’t change any other setting, go to race C qualifying and test there with the RCZ.
if you still have no Road feeling, turn up the in game torque settings and test the in game wheel sensitivity setting until it feels correct to you.
There are a lot of settings to mess with, if you think you’re going to just plug it all in and it will be all set up to how you drive, your mistaken, it will take time, it’s took me years to be fully settled and happy. Be patient and try not to change too many settings at once or you won’t know which setting made a better or poorer feeling.
good luck
What FFB setting are other 8nm dd pro users on ? I’m on podium so can’t advise the best
Standard but with NDP Off and INT 1. Higher INT can be more comfortable if you want to sacrifice detail. I see no reason to touch any other setting ever. FF is changed according to preference of course.
5/1 in-game in GT7.
Simple - now enjoy the great product, practice and have fun.
Hi Stephen, did you feel much difference between 439 and 440?
I have exactly the same setup as you, But am using exactly the Fanatec recommendation settings at the beginning of this thread. (Currently at a 1:24.3 for Daily C)
No I don’t think the FFB was actually changed in the update, it was turning off NDP and playing with the in game torque and sens settings which have made the difference for me I think.
Comments
Took delivery of my GT DD Pro exactly a week ago. It is my first wheel after spending a couple of decades racing with a controller. I DL’d the latest firmware and entered Fanatec’s recommended settings and immediately realized I was going to need some time to get comfortable with the transition.
I’ve spent some time researching the settings on the wheel and spending multiple hours trying different combinations along with altering my driving style to suit the wheel and pedals. I’m at a point now where my lap times are competitive with my controller times (time trials).
However, no matter what I do, I can’t be competitive in online, multiplayer, races with the wheel. The wheel doesn’t give me the ability to correct the ‘taps’ from other cars when racing in close proximity. I simply spin out of control with bumps that are easily corrected with the controller. It’s extremely frustrating because I enjoy everything about the wheel but I spend the majority of my time in multiplayer.
I wanted to get the feedback from those that have more experience racing multiplayer online with a wheel, is this behavior normal? Are you experiencing the same issue on GT7? Is this something that could, potentially, get corrected via a wheel firmware update or game update?
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
I am not a huge fan of the fanatec recommended settings and it seems others feel the same way. There is a youtube video a couple comments back which is better than the fanatec settings. It makes the car easier to "catch" and is a little more forgiving. I have began to mess with the settings and have found that the FEI, FOR, and SPR should be adjusted as well. I race online and have had taps and its not that violent, but my FEI is lower than the recommended settings. If you turn down the Force Effect Intensity, it may help here. I did find a better experience when in game sensitivity was moved from 1 to 10 and seems to be common with most people with fanatec wheels.
Here are my current settings:
SEN - AUTO
FF - 95
FFS - PEAK
NDP - 50
NFR - OFF
NIN - OFF
INT - OFF
FEI - 60
FOR - 80
SPR - 90
DPR - 100
In Game Settings (5 & 10).
SPR is not used by the game.
FOR should ALWAYS be 100.
What settings are you using?
I don't see any reason to every fiddle with anything else but FF, INT and NDP.
FF for me depends on the car. If it's difficult to control, more FF is needed.
INT 6 feels smooth but still detailed enough. 2 as recommended is fine as well but a bit buzzy and harsh. Off is unpleasant.
NDP to me seems to be a safety setting to avoid oscillation and injury from snaps. It definitely makes it harder to catch and correct slides. Off for me.
Also, I don't see any reason to ever have any other in-game settings than the recommended, 5/1.
Hi!
I've tried almost every configuration I've found in this thread, including the ones in the videos.
I can't find any that give me grip information when I'm in a long corner. You feel the jolt when you have already lost the car, but I lack that feeling of hardness before losing it that allows you to rectify.
For example, this week I would like to have felt that feeling at turns 6 and 7 of the Interlagos circuit.
Could someone tell me what parameter could be adjusted for that? Or is it directly that GT7 does not give that feeling and cannot be achieved?
Unfortunately the new physics in GT7 are lacking in that department. Hopefully it will be better with future updates. Nothing in the wheelbase settings will help to a great level.
Yep, when you reach optimal slip angle and the smallest possible turn radius for a given speed, the FFB is just smooth/dead/"clipping". In most circumstances, make no sudden movements here and steer gently with brake/throttle, and get back to the lively part of FFB before flooring the throttle. Many people use too much throttle here and complain about "snap oversteer".
With road cars, it might be necessary to never venture into "smooth territory" - too slippery.
Not sure yet if people just need to adapt or if PD needs to fix it. I like it much more than the FFB in GTS. In GT7, it's very clear where the limit is - tyre squeal isn't needed.
There has been improvements bit overall it still feels too video game to me. I'm really looking forward to going PC based this year. It could be a beautiful game if they would take note of what others are doing but hardcore doesn't fit their respective audience.
Updated my laptop to windows 10 and was able to install 439 on my DD1. All FW is current.
The steering angle differences are still there. Many GR3 cars are off 10 to 20 degrees. Some almost appear to be 15.
Naive question. Motor sensor calibration would not cause and issue, correct?
I got a PC with ACC and vastly prefer GT7. Matter of preference, I guess. And yes, I'm racing competitively online only and without assists.
I have a powerful lust for triple monitors and a more realistic effort towards sim racing that GT7 won't supply I guess. I'll play it for nostalgic reasons but that's about it. I compete in GT7 but certain things about the racing structure I can't get over no matter how much I try.
I'm fortunate enough to be able to put in the seat time so it makes sense to go a little bigger with my efforts.
Hi guys,
I found much more better settings for myself when I switched off NDP completely and lowered FF to 65-75. Other settings as recommended. By this settings I have got much more realistic feel what's happening with the car. It is easier to catch oversteer too.
I do prefer lighter steering (also in real sports car you are not fighting with the feel) because it's easier for me react quickly. With such settings I'm having much more fun to drive in GT7 now. Also I can perform quicker lap times.
Cheers and see you on the track!
Hey!
I did same NDP off and others as recommended but lowered FF even lower to 55 and I really like how it feels to drive.
Yep, NDP off, and INT as low as possible (1-6). However, I vary FF depending on car. With low downforce cars, I use 100%, and with high downforce cars, I use 50%. It's great to be able to adapt on the fly in-game.
Hi,
Does anyone know what the settings were on the release data?
I tested the updated settings for the dd Pro, but I don't like them.
I had the settings from the release date before I changed anything, But can't remeber what that settings were.
Does anyone still have them? Thanks!!!!
I think I've tried everything I've seen here and on YouTube, this is the one I prefer:
Gran Turismo DD Pro
Tuning Menu Settings:
In-Game Settings:
I'm running comp. mode on the GT DD Pro PS4. Driver 439, I even reset the tuning menu. i went from 5 to 2/3 ingame and it was too light at 2 and too much at 3.
I am using the recommended except FF at 55. I have found on every game to drop FF 50-55%, atm (possibly 50-60%). Ex: Corvette drives more like a Corvette. The ffb feels more realistic. I can't understand, why I can't hit the recommended settings or even get close. The recommended settings are not even useable on my base and the detail has been lost into a black hole. It's like I getting ready to go from the norm to winning a world wide arm building competition in days.
You can leave the in-game settings at 5/1 and change only FF in the wheel. With road cars, I mostly use 100%, because I need to feel what's going on very clearly, to not spin out. With race cars, it's more point-and-shoot quickly because of the high downforce - so I use around 40-60% there. And then there's everything inbetween, depending on the car, circumstances and personal preference.
But yes, I agree, 100% in a race car really isn't necessary. At least I just get fatigued and slow - there's no benefit.
I noticed one car mission that 100 was nowhere near enough. PD still has some work, getting a vehicle high centered a cone. Some are hit and some are a big miss on FF.
100% on 8Nm with a 28cm wheel 1kg wheel? I haven't found a car where this isn't plenty and just perfect. 5Nm would however not be enough for me with all cars. And with a bigger and heavier wheel, I'd want more than 8Nm with the sketchiest road cars.
Hello from Germany,
i bought the car Dodge SRT X VGT. Unfortunately, it is no longer drivable from a speed of 400km/h. The steering wheel (DD Pro) shakes very much from one side to the other.
As soon as you steer something against it gets better. However, it is no longer possible to drive the car straight with over 400km/h.
In another forum there was talk of errors in the physics or even a force feedback oscillation.
So far this car is the only one I have that is this fast and causes these problems. It's a shame. The car cost 1,000,000 credits and I can't use it.
My settings are 100% taken from the recommendation of the first post.
That's normal.
The Physics for that car are broken (or maybe also intended, only Game Developers know...).
There is nothing you can do other than massively reducing the FFB strength. Or drive that car with a controller...
Picture above for reference, settings below are for my rig in the picture (DD1)
never really posted my settings before as I’ve never felt they were great. Clearly won’t be to everyone’s taste but I’ve had my DD1 for nearly three years and it’s the best Feeling I’ve had from it on Gt7/Sport I’ve had.
installed driver 4.40 this morning, did the settings, had a 5 hour session on Race C, qualifying lap so far is 1.24,771. Think I can get it down to low 1.24s or high 1.23s which for me is awesome, I’m normally 3 seconds off the top ten.
Race C settings on Peugeot RCZ
sens: 540
FFB: 25 when qualifying and when warming up, knocking down to 22 once in race and settled (if I use 22 when warming up, I bin it, need to get the feel then I can back off to stop fatigue setting in)
FF Scale: Peak
NDP: Off
Nat Fri: Off
Nat Inertia: Off
Ffb Inter: 1 or 2
FE int: 100
FES: 100 or 110
Spring: Off
DPR:100 or 110
BLi: 90
BRF: 45
in game settings
Torque: 4 to 6 your preference is best here
Controller sens: 1 to 4 your own preference is best here again, can’t stress how important it is to test controller sens and get right for YOU !!!
good luck and hope the above helps someone
counter steering is obviously off 🙄😂😂😂😂
Ok, thank you.
In a (stupid) German forum I was told to train my upper arms. 🙄
Today I played F1 2021. This is great! Especially very fast!!! I love it 👍
I have read that (stupid) comment in that forum...
Such comments are really bs... Dont feed such trolls and just ignore them ;)
It's really the car which is just broken...
Hello from France !
First time in sim racing with a wheel since…25 years!
I wanted to share with you my first feeling after having tested my brand new GT DD PRO 8nm pack with load cell brake pedal and shifter/handbrake (everything is hard mounted on a cockpit, well plugged, firmwares of hard/software up to date)
I tested this on tuesday on PS5 Gran Turismo 7 and I was really disappointed…
The steering seems very soft despite the recommended settings (the force feedback back is present but really really soft), I have no feedback in the steering wheel in case of change of surface (asphalt, dirt, bumpers…) and nothing at all in case of collision with another vehicle or a wall !
is it the same for you ? Nothing when you have a shock (competitors or wall)? When you change of surface (asphalt, grass…)?
I’m lost…
Hi Sacha
try my settings above but where I use 22-25 FFB on my podium, set your GT DD PRO around 70, if still not strong enough then increase it. Don’t change any other setting, go to race C qualifying and test there with the RCZ.
if you still have no Road feeling, turn up the in game torque settings and test the in game wheel sensitivity setting until it feels correct to you.
There are a lot of settings to mess with, if you think you’re going to just plug it all in and it will be all set up to how you drive, your mistaken, it will take time, it’s took me years to be fully settled and happy. Be patient and try not to change too many settings at once or you won’t know which setting made a better or poorer feeling.
good luck
What FFB setting are other 8nm dd pro users on ? I’m on podium so can’t advise the best
Standard but with NDP Off and INT 1. Higher INT can be more comfortable if you want to sacrifice detail. I see no reason to touch any other setting ever. FF is changed according to preference of course.
5/1 in-game in GT7.
Simple - now enjoy the great product, practice and have fun.
Hi Stephen, did you feel much difference between 439 and 440?
I have exactly the same setup as you, But am using exactly the Fanatec recommendation settings at the beginning of this thread. (Currently at a 1:24.3 for Daily C)
Hi Nick
No I don’t think the FFB was actually changed in the update, it was turning off NDP and playing with the in game torque and sens settings which have made the difference for me I think.