Just wondering if anyone has any recommended settings for the new WRC game? Know it just came out figured I'd get the ball rolling.
Hi, I’ve been playing around with the settings on my CSL DD Pro 8nm today. I like it like this so far. Playing with a Clubsport RS wheel with the 1.5 Shifter and Handbrake
Here’s my settings:
CSL DD Pro 8nm
BFR: 95 (personal preference)
Max wheel angle: 540
Force & Effects:
Overall force: 70
Self aligning torque: 100
Tyre load: 110*
Self centre: 100
Recentre force: 100
Ground surface: 10*
For some reasons, the game saves the Tyre Load and Ground surface as 109 and 9.
0 on everything.
I spent a chunk of Tuesday experimenting with the FFB on the DD Pro to figure out what each setting did, test drove each one in isolation at 100%, and took some notes:
PRIMARY FFB SETTINGS
SAT - The main one, as expected, pseudo G force to sense the weight transfer. All good
Tyre Friction - added resistance in the steering wheel when front tyres under load. A bit mild in isolation
Self Centre - Seems to arbitrarily pull the wheel to centre without much reason from a physics perspective, not a strong effect it seems
Recentre - Doesn't affect driving - n/a
Gnd Surface - very little effect in isolation*, odd bump
VIBRATION FFB SETTINGS
Tyre slip - noisy, a bit unpleseant. Doesn't react to wheel spin. Only reacts to understeer of the front wheels (and its a jarring rattling on the CSL DD - like the bad F1 22 update)
Suspension - noisy, not offering a lot of information, just a constant graininess (I don't understand what this is trying to do - it's like what I imagined ground surface might try to do)
Gnd surface - very little effect in isolation* at 100? Was wondering why are there two of these at the time
Eng - a bit useless, not overly strong - 50 or less keeps it just there in the background without being obtrusive
Collision - also not overly strong, not obnoxious as it was in previous games
What I realised, when you start dialing these in together some specific ones are clearly affected (or boosted) by others. After testing with combinations I found;
*Ground surface (misleadingly named) made a huge difference for the FFB - the two Gnd Surf settings individually did almost nothing, but turn them BOTH to 100, and suddenly you have... suspension? I'd assumed it would be some sort of rumble/texture changing on surface type). What it actually is, is more akin to suspension. It really transforms the FFB, you feel bumps, feel when you land more heavily on one side and need to correct, feel camber changes etc. This makes a huge difference but needs to be cranked up from the measly default to be meaningful.
Self Centre took on a lease of life, and not in a good way when mixed in to SAT etc. When I eventually dialled it back out in final trial and error balancing - right back to zero - I realised it was causing the underlying unnatural feeling. it gives a counter intuitive pull on the wheel that is actively confusing the forces you need to feel
Here's where I ended up:
Overall Force - up to you (I go ~80 for WRC 22 cars, 100 for everything else so far)
SAT - 100
Tyre Friction - 50 (found this also seemed to get a boost when together with others, I still tinker with this)
Self Centre - 0
Re-centre - whatever
Ground Surface - 75 (I still play with this one a bit too, but recommend at least 60, not the ridiculously low default)
**Tyre Slip - 25 (I leave a bit in there, but user preference, it will be noisy above 40)
**Suspension - 0
Ground Surface - 100 (use the main FFB version to dial the strength, 100 here keeps fidelity)
**Engine - 30 (as per TS above)
**Collision - 100 (its a pretty mild and inoffensive bump/hit indication)
**all of these could easily be 0 with nothing really lost, I'll turn any off in a heartbeat if they ever cross me
On the base:
SEN: 540 (and also 540 in game setting)
BFR: Up to you
David, thank you!
I compared your settings to the one I tested today and yours feels more alive on my CS RS wheel without being too noisy.
I also retested en SEN and Wheel Angle and I feel 360 is better for me.
CSL DD Pro 8nm (Clubsport RS wheel)
Max wheel angle: 360
Overall force: 90
Tyre load: 50
Self centre: 0
Ground surface: 75
Overall Vibration: 0
Tyre Slip: 25
Ground surface: 100
I have the DD PRO with the 1,5 Handbrake, but can't get it to work on PS5.
Has anyone else the same problem or is it working for you?
Hi Linus, it was working for me when last used yesterday
thank you, it was just me that didn’t understand the mapping.🤪
now it works.👍
I seem to have the same issue. how do I get the handbrake working, please? thanks in advance
Does anyone use the DD pro on the PS5 with shifter and handbrake? Thank you.
Hi Christoph, that's what I'm using
Great. I had problems with this in WRC 10. Thanks for your feedback.
David M - props to you. This setup gave me a great starting point. Here's where I landed based on your starting point. I was going for a similar feel to how I have Dirt Rally 2 setup - in fact I used the exact same base settings just modified in game settings. I use a lighter wheel and try to get the couter steering as intuitive as possible. Let me know what you think.
Side note - for anyone using the CSL Elite V2 pedals, the default setup felt amazing for both Dirt Rally 2 and WRC Generations (blue spring and 3 65s) - Brake Force at 30%. Just got these in tonight and it was really impressive out of the box.
Base (same as Dirt Rally 2):
SEN: 540 (Matched this in game as well)
Self Aligning: 120 (this makes countering intuitive)
Tyre Load: 25 (this feels like dead weight and seems to dampen the self aligning that helps you couter steer)
Self Center: 0
Ground Surface: 100 (I actually didn't mind this at all, didn't seem to get in the way of the counter steering and added some grit to gravel tracks)
I actually left all these at 100, I know that could be 'noisy', but my overall force is down to 60, so I didn't feel anything taking away from the FFB by leaving them at the default
Let me know what you think, I think both your original setting and where I landed is miles ahead of the defaults, probably due to the two terrible forces of self center and tyre load - if you do nothing else besides turn these two way down, I think you are in good shape.
With some more testing, all other settings being the same as my post above, I have found that bumping self aligning to 140 and adjusting overall to between 60 and 100 depending on the car is working well. Some RWD historics are super light and I had to use 100 overall, while more modern cars are way heavier and somewhere between 60-80 is fine. Addiing more self-aligning helps with the handbrake spin outs, the wheel quickly counters when you use the handbrake and deters the back from coming around.
Cheers @David Jablonski. It's always a work in progress, I'm always tinkering, and as I've gone through career mode I have changed a few things - and actually towards the same direction you've gone in. The suspension (under vibration) was grainy on the test area (where I tested all the settings), but I added some in halfway through a career just out of curiosity and it was pretty good, so that's gone up. I'm still not convinced on tyre slip though! Ground surface I've gone up on as well like you have. I have to say I'm enjoying the ffb on this at the moment, the potential is there, they do themselves a disservice with the terrible defaults as that's what they get reviewed on by many prominent 'sim racers' (who don't seem to tune settings despite their perceived expertise). They really do need to fix 1st gear though, the hairpin / slow corner exit issues are all around the absence of any torque below 4500rpm and the auto-clutch - if you progressively apply throttle you get nothing through most of the rev range and then at 4500rpm huge torque, and it spikes to 4500rpm irrespective of throttle input so there's no ability to modulate through low to medium revs - I looked at it here https://youtu.be/m7N7ku_uuqA
Agreed - absolutely enjoy the game with modified settings, but not everyone will experiement, and I understand their line of thinking in that they shouldn't have to. I'll check out that auto clutch issue today, good find. Seems that the only 'fix' is just to wing the crap out of it and keep momentum: https://youtu.be/JMeZWYN_Lsk?t=23 - If the revs don't drop below a certain number I guess the auto clutch does not engaged? Or he is just on the gas so fast it disengages at the correct time? Not sure, but it's a shame you can't take a hair pin at a slower speed and use the torque like Dirt Rally 2. Not everyone is a god and can enter a hairpin at 60mph lol...
Anyone having issues assigning the handbrake in this game?
Hey guys, thinking about picking this game up on sale, and am looking for advice.
I'm coming from WRC 9, which I wound up really liking once I worked out some good settings for my CSL DD. My concern however, is that there was a bug in career mode in 9 where members of your crew would randomly disappear between events. I've seen some people online saying that this bug was still present in 10.
Does anyone know if the devs have fixed this bug in Generations? If not, I'll probably pass and just wait to see what Codemasters do with the license.
I can’t get it to work keeps saying wheel disconnect and shifter and throttle stop working!!!! Don’t know what to do !!