OK I have done a lot of testing these last two days. Note I almost exclusively drift on AC and irl so the nuances of self steer, tire slip and grip are particularly important to me. Also I am still fine tuning the interactions between DPR, NDP, NFR . Maybe someone can explain these a little better and how it affects each other.
However my main discovery is that similar to what's been recommended, a high in game GAIN is preferred over high wheel FFB. I have tested a whole range between in game gain from 50 to 100 in increments of 10, and for a certainly, detail and fidelity is lost if gain is reduced. Also it is **** that 100 gain in AC leads to clipping. Balance this out with wheel FFB and the car. If you are getting clipping with 100 gain, some other parameters are screwing it up. fwiw this is what I am playing with atm.
What's the best way to compress the dynamic range in this game using the DDs? Low gain in in-game settings and high FFB on the wheel settings?
I mostly race F1 cars and they have such a huge difference between high and low speed that if I adjust it the way I want it for low speed corners, it gets way to strong in high speed corners, and opposite if I adjust for high speed corners I loose a lot of feeling in the low speed corners.
It should be the other way around. I would not go above 75 on the in-game gain however. Adding some min force will also reduce dynamic range, but it could cause other problems (oscillation).
I have been trying to wrap my head around this.. would love to see a more technical explanation as to why.
i.e (ignore actual numbers, just an example) Game 10% Wheel 100% Game 100% Wheel 10% Game 50% Wheel 50%
I would have thought, by restricting the output from the base you are limiting the dynamic range more than if you restricted the output from the game. If wheel is at say 35% the max output of the dd2 could only ever reach 8.75nM whereas lowering it in game (which also avoids clipping of the output signal) allows a larger range on the base,whereby it could hit what is potentially required (10, 11, 25nm :P)
Perhaps the best would be a balance of both, so game / wheel at similar kind of values to achieve the desired strength, avoiding clipping from the game and allowing a larger range from the base.
I'm a noob on this sort of thing, but interested in more info, for sure.
Note - some have commented that setting gain at 100 in game will lead to clipping. This is absolute ****! I have tested combinations of gain from 50 all the way to 100 and it is better to have a greater gain in game than a lower one. Fidelity and detail is significantly reduced with lower in game gain numbers. So I now go with a gain of 100 and then increase wheel FFB to the point where I get the best combination of wheel weight without clipping. Having said that. These are only suggested settings but I think it is a good base to start for drift if you have a podium. Testing was done with Kunos e30 M3 drift stock. Further fine tuning can be achieved with various combinations of DPR/NDP/NFR
What's the best way to compress the dynamic range in this game using the DDs? Low gain in in-game settings and high FFB on the wheel settings?
I mostly race F1 cars and they have such a huge difference between high and low speed that if I adjust it the way I want it for low speed corners, it gets way to strong in high speed corners, and opposite if I adjust for high speed corners I loose a lot of feeling in the low speed corners.
It should be the other way around. I would not go above 75 on the in-game gain however. Adding some min force will also reduce dynamic range, but it could cause other problems (oscillation).
I have been trying to wrap my head around this.. would love to see a more technical explanation as to why.
i.e (ignore actual numbers, just an example) Game 10% Wheel 100% Game 100% Wheel 10% Game 50% Wheel 50%
I would have thought, by restricting the output from the base you are limiting the dynamic range more than if you restricted the output from the game. If wheel is at say 35% the max output of the dd2 could only ever reach 8.75nM whereas lowering it in game (which also avoids clipping of the output signal) allows a larger range on the base,whereby it could hit what is potentially required (10, 11, 25nm :P)
Perhaps the best would be a balance of both, so game / wheel at similar kind of values to achieve the desired strength, avoiding clipping from the game and allowing a larger range from the base.
I'm a noob on this sort of thing, but interested in more info, for sure.
I too would be interested in a technical explanation. My anecdotal experience seems to suggest that the QUALITY of FFB is different for GAME vs WHEEL. Ultimately it is apparent to me that the key source of FFB should be from the game. The wheel FFB, is in my own words, similar to "canned" ffb. You can try it for yourself. The results are quite obvious. Use the examples you provided keeping everything the same ie Game 10% Wheel 100% Game 100% Wheel 10%
Note - some have commented that setting gain at 100 in game will lead to clipping. This is absolute ****! I have tested combinations of gain from 50 all the way to 100 and it is better to have a greater gain in game than a lower one. Fidelity and detail is significantly reduced with lower in game gain numbers. So I now go with a gain of 100 and then increase wheel FFB to the point where I get the best combination of wheel weight without clipping. Having said that. These are only suggested settings but I think it is a good base to start for drift if you have a podium. Testing was done with Kunos e30 M3 drift stock. Further fine tuning can be achieved with various combinations of DPR/NDP/NFR
Just tried these settings on my DD2 (therefore FF set to 26 to get it to the same max Peak Output of 6,6 Nm you have with FF set to 33 on a DD1).
And in the first corner I experienced clipping - massive clipping. Dont know how you can say you dont get clipping... It is well known that AC in Game gain 100 results in software clipping.
It is correct, that the fidelity with a higher in Game gain is higher and better, but you want to avoid software clipping and to do so I would recommend to try a setting of 70 or max 80 in game gain and then fine tune the Base FF value to match your preferred steering force (6,6 Nm are also way too low for my personal liking, I need at least 9Nm in corners...)
Also DPR value btw has no effect in game. DPR in AC is only used for the Damping in standstill and when driving under 3kmh to simulate friction of the tires.
Wheel FFB is not canned, its to limit the maximum Motor Power but it doesnt change the FFB - fidelity loss only comes because of lower in Game gain (which is neccessary in AC to avoid software clipping).
I would suggest you to try this:
SEN auto
FF 69 (max Peak of 13.8Nm)
SHO User preference
ABS User preference
FOR 100
SPR no effect
DPR no effect
NDP 25
NFR anything up to 5
FEI 100
in Game Gain set to 70, every other FFB effects turned OFF.
This gave me a VERY nice drifitng experience with a lot of FFB feedback but without any clipping (but already close to clipping border in some turns!) on my DD2 (again, to match Nm max output I used FF 55 to get the same 13.75Nm output as you would get with FF 69 on your DD1). If thats too much FFB you should try to lower the Wheel Base FFB until it feels fine for you.
Anyway, also only a suggestion - ffb is highly personal (but with your settings you ARE getting clipping and thats not what you normally want^^)
Note - some have commented that setting gain at 100 in game will lead to clipping. This is absolute ****! I have tested combinations of gain from 50 all the way to 100 and it is better to have a greater gain in game than a lower one. Fidelity and detail is significantly reduced with lower in game gain numbers. So I now go with a gain of 100 and then increase wheel FFB to the point where I get the best combination of wheel weight without clipping. Having said that. These are only suggested settings but I think it is a good base to start for drift if you have a podium. Testing was done with Kunos e30 M3 drift stock. Further fine tuning can be achieved with various combinations of DPR/NDP/NFR
Just tried these settings on my DD2 (therefore FF set to 26 to get it to the same max Peak Output of 6,6 Nm you have with FF set to 33 on a DD1).
And in the first corner I experienced clipping - massive clipping. Dont know how you can say you dont get clipping... It is well known that AC in Game gain 100 results in software clipping.
It is correct, that the fidelity with a higher in Game gain is higher and better, but you want to avoid software clipping and to do so I would recommend to try a setting of 70 or max 80 in game gain and then fine tune the Base FF value to match your preferred steering force (6,6 Nm are also way too low for my personal liking, I need at least 9Nm in corners...)
Also DPR value btw has no effect in game. DPR in AC is only used for the Damping in standstill and when driving under 3kmh to simulate friction of the tires.
Wheel FFB is not canned, its to limit the maximum Motor Power but it doesnt change the FFB - fidelity loss only comes because of lower in Game gain (which is neccessary in AC to avoid software clipping).
I would suggest you to try this:
SEN auto
FF 69 (max Peak of 13.8Nm)
SHO User preference
ABS User preference
FOR 100
SPR no effect
DPR no effect
NDP 25
NFR anything up to 5
FEI 100
in Game Gain set to 70, every other FFB effects turned OFF.
This gave me a VERY nice drifitng experience with a lot of FFB feedback but without any clipping (but already close to clipping border in some turns!) on my DD2 (again, to match Nm max output I used FF 55 to get the same 13.75Nm output as you would get with FF 69 on your DD1). If thats too much FFB you should try to lower the Wheel Base FFB until it feels fine for you.
Anyway, also only a suggestion - ffb is highly personal (but with your settings you ARE getting clipping and thats not what you normally want^^)
No clipping for me. Been using it all day today. Lower your car ffb perhaps. Also DPR values DEFINITELY have an effect OMG. Tried your settings and the Car was totally uncontrollable unless you only drive straight. Do you use the AC FFB controller app? Try that. Not sure what you drift irl but I did FD for 3 years and also teach drifting. Am not new to AC as well. Been using it since day one and have it fully modded with CM, shaders patch and SOL on a dbox motion rig. Here is a link to my youtube vid of my sim drifting. You will also find other vids of my irl drifting in my channel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojpCL6MpZMU
Old but this is still gold. For folks who don't yet understand how FFB in AC works. TLDR version...reduce your car ffb if there is clipping. Use the in game app. You should not be sacrificing your game gain for that.
So was thinking more about this high wheel FFB and lower in game, versus lower on wheel and higher in game and came to this conclusion.
100 in game can and usually will result in clipping at some point.
Also, lowering the wheel, will lower its ceiling and therfore also result in clipping, at some point.
So High in game / low on wheel has the possibility to clip at both the game and the hardware.
i.e Max wheel output say 10nm. In a high DF car, taking a corner and the wheel is hitting near its ceiling 9.9nm, go over a kerb or maybe scrape another car and it would try to push it above the ceiling of the base (and therefore, clip) or the game will clip... end result will be loss of something.
Versus, Lower in game so it always avoids clipping and higher on wheel (also avoids clipping) means the above scenario should never occur unless you hit the max strength of the wheel, which lets face it, would be uncomfortable and unrealistic in most cases to drive with it set so high in the first place.
i.e Same example, example max wheel output is now 25nm, so when at that 10nm on cornering, hitting the curb will not clip because the ceiling is soo much higher, headroom is there. The game won't clip because the gain is low enough to output everything it needs to, period. End result, no clipping, ever (unless you are hulk and have in game v. high too)
I would rather avoid clipping at all, so it seems to me, medium to low in game and high to medium on wheel will give the absolute best results.
Old but this is still gold. For folks who don't yet understand how FFB in AC works. TLDR version...reduce your car ffb if there is clipping. Use the in game app. You should not be sacrificing your game gain for that.
Not only that, if you are turning down gain per-car and find yourself doing so a lot, then the chances are your overall gain was wrong to start with. You are then losing the dynamic differences between vehicles, i.e making a gt3 feel the same weight as an old classic or road car because "you like it that way" Some cars are light, some are heavy... Set your main in-game gain using the heaviest steering car you can and then if you find the need to tweak per car, go for it. But if the game has the correct data, you shouldn't have to adjust many or by much at all...
It's fine. I am just sharing. I have had folks do a 180 turnaround after a year and telling me they had it wrong. I don't gain anything by winning these arguments. I just want you guys to have the best experience. A really good pro driver of mine famously says...you only know what you know. Have fun!
Guys I need help, I lost the leds and speedmeter suddenly without changing anything… Someone have an idea ? Works perfectly on software and on ACC...
Make sure you are in Compatibility Mode and NOT in pc mode, then it should work fine. Only in comp mode these features work because AC is EOL and doesn't provide official DD support.
Guys I need help, I lost the leds and speedmeter suddenly without changing anything… Someone have an idea ? Works perfectly on software and on ACC...
Make sure you are in Compatibility Mode and NOT in pc mode, then it should work fine. Only in comp mode these features work because AC is EOL and doesn't provide official DD support.
Compatibility Mode ? How to verify that ? I'm on PC with a DD1 and F1LM. It worked fine since the first days with my DD1 and it disapear on a break between two races.. ?? Thank you for your help
Guys I need help, I lost the leds and speedmeter suddenly without changing anything… Someone have an idea ? Works perfectly on software and on ACC...
Make sure you are in Compatibility Mode and NOT in pc mode, then it should work fine. Only in comp mode these features work because AC is EOL and doesn't provide official DD support.
Compatibility Mode ? How to verify that ? I'm on PC with a DD1 and F1LM. It worked fine since the first days with my DD1 and it disapear on a break between two races.. ?? Thank you for your help
You should take a look at the manual of the DD which explains the different modes and how to access them. You can also see the FAQ section of your wheel which has a table which shows the correct button combo which you need to press to change modes.
AC leds and display only works in CSW v2.5 compatibility mode.
Maurice Böschen said:You should take a look at the manual of the DD which explains the different modes and how to access them. You can also see the FAQ section of your wheel which has a table which shows the correct button combo which you need to press to change modes.
AC leds and display only works in CSW v2.5 compatibility mode.
Hello, just want to check if this is still correct, since it is a couple of weeks old? I kinda thought there was an AC update recently which supports now the DD1/2 Podium wheels? It certainly recognizes DD1 in AC controller settings when in PC mode. But I still could not get the rev lights to work in AC. (ACC is fine, AC doesn't work)
Maurice Böschen said:You should take a look at the manual of the DD which explains the different modes and how to access them. You can also see the FAQ section of your wheel which has a table which shows the correct button combo which you need to press to change modes.
AC leds and display only works in CSW v2.5 compatibility mode.
Hello, just want to check if this is still correct, since it is a couple of weeks old? I kinda thought there was an AC update recently which supports now the DD1/2 Podium wheels? It certainly recognizes DD1 in AC controller settings when in PC mode. But I still could not get the rev lights to work in AC. (ACC is fine, AC doesn't work)
AC is end of life and won't receive any patch in the future, it's dead. No native DD support and it will never come. You need Comp Mode to get leds working.
Hello, just want to check if this is still correct, since it is a couple of weeks old? I kinda thought there was an AC update recently which supports now the DD1/2 Podium wheels? It certainly recognizes DD1 in AC controller settings when in PC mode. But I still could not get the rev lights to work in AC. (ACC is fine, AC doesn't work)
I think that was ACC that got the update for the DD1/DD2.
To get the rev lights and display to work you still need to put your in CSW 2.5 compatibility mode.
Help with Fanatec Handbrake w/ Podium DD2 not working with Assetto Corsa
I have a Fanatec Handbrake connected to the Podium DD2 Base and the game does not allow me to assign the Handbrake. It sees it as an analog input but not as a button input. The handbrake works in Dirt Rally 2 and Automobilista so I know it works. Can someone please help me. Yes I have tried setting it up in the SECOND TAB. No luck
I found out the answer. The DD2 does not let you get the correct handbrake input in games if you connect the handbrake to the DD2 base. You have to connect the handbrake 1.5 to the Fanatec pedals for the handbrake to work properly. It doesn't say it anywhere in the DD2 manual or FAQ.
Comments
Game 10% Wheel 100%
Game 100% Wheel 10%
Game 50% Wheel 50%
I would have thought, by restricting the output from the base you are limiting the dynamic range more than if you restricted the output from the game. If wheel is at say 35% the max output of the dd2 could only ever reach 8.75nM whereas lowering it in game (which also avoids clipping of the output signal) allows a larger range on the base,whereby it could hit what is potentially required (10, 11, 25nm :P)
I'm a noob on this sort of thing, but interested in more info, for sure.
Game 100% Wheel 10%
i.e Same example, example max wheel output is now 25nm, so when at that 10nm on cornering, hitting the curb will not clip because the ceiling is soo much higher, headroom is there. The game won't clip because the gain is low enough to output everything it needs to, period. End result, no clipping, ever (unless you are hulk and have in game v. high too)
Turning down the in car FFB is exactly the same as lowering the overall Gain, you just only doing it for one specific car instead of for all cars..
SEN 1080
FF 36%
SHO off
ABS off
FOR 100%
SPR off
DPR 100%
NDP 47%
NFR 6%
BRF 60
FEI 50
Gain: 100%
Filter: 0%
Min Force: 0%
Kerb Effects: 0%
Road Effects: 0%
Slip Effects: 0%
ABS Effects: 0%
Enhanced Understeer Effect: Unchecked
Half FFB Update Rate: Unchecked
Gamma: 1.00
Filter: 0.00
Speed Sensitivity: 0.00