@ Grimey, I tried the first Beta 222 but had issues and figured I'd leave the Beta testing to the pros . So far V219/94 has been working just fine for me, and since I am FM5 only at the moment I'm ok for now. Really I've been waiting to update when FM6 drops and see how that goes, since it will be the first Forza that Fanatec was in on before the release. From the early read I think it will be another shift to arcade,2 lap craziness ...it will keep me off the streets for a bit and by then you will have fixed Pcars/Fanatec marriage and Assetto-Corsa will be hitting the consoles
And you, Antoine, & Natalie deserve thanks for all the effort and time you have put in to helping us newbies get a better sim-race experience.
Again for people owning a Mac. Copied this out of V3 pedals topic!! All I did was using the search option on Mac !!!
Stuart Barrie July 21 edited July 21 Flag Chris Broshar said: Has anyone had any issues getting their V2 base to recognise the V3 pedals? I'm running it on a PS4 and don't own a PC to be able to check for firmware upgrades (i'm a mac user). Any ideas? I would have thought they would have worked out the box.
Mine are running awesome (pCars on PS4) - HOWEVER - I did upgrade the firmware. Before upgrading the firmware, the pedals did NOT behave properly. I'm on a Mac too. If you don't have a Windows computer here's what to do.
1) Install VMWare fusion or Parallels. If you don't own either, just get the 30 day free trial. 2) Go to http://dev.modern.ie/tools/vms/windows/ and download the VM for IE11 on Win7 -- for the platform you chose (VMWare or Parallels). [This is a developer site provided by Microsoft.] 3) Boot up the VM. 4) Plug in your pedals and attach the USB device to the VM. 5) Install the updated fanatec software from their site 6) Perform the firmware upgrade per the instructions
You should be up in running in little to no time -- not a penny spent on Windows.
-Scott
Awesome thanks for everybody's help. Worked out that it was just a dodgy third party RJ12 cable that I was using. A shame as the one supplied is never long enough but at least it now all works. Now to find some good settings and get it all dialled in.
Another good idea is to grab a cheap second hand/refurbished Win 8 tablet, they are virtually giving them away over here with almost any purchase of an electrical item, eBay has loads of them (refurbished) for next to nothing and they are great for updating firmware etc.
I use a little 8" tablet attached to my RIG for things like firmware updates, calibration etc and watching TV during a race
Obviously a small charge is required, but it's insignificant compared to the benefits (also useful for those who's Mac is in another room etc) you can update, calibrate all without getting out of your seat (very convenient)
Additionally, The current state of affairs appears to be (for users who want to keep brf in manual cal) for now: CSPv3 Firmware 1.8 CSWv2 Firmware 110 Should give "some" user a consistent experience who want to keep the manual cal with brf feature.
This may be useful, as it will give users the option to continue to use this feature (although is by no means a recommendation) while we test the new firmware and iron out any bugs etc.
Remember you can keep the driver 222 (or whatever) installed on your PC, and just pick the hex file for the v2 base update sepererly. Just copy this from the folder of the new driver:
Unpack/install the latest driver. Copy hex file from the latest driver to a folder of your choice. Uninstall this driver installation. Next Install older driver version (222) for example, or your choice. Now Flash your pedals with this drivers firmware revision (1.8) And then Use the same drivers to update facility to update your wheel base "BUT" do not use the default file, select the "alternate hex file" you removed and stored, from the updated driver earlier
This way you don't need to keep jumping driver revisions if you are primarily using "consoles" and don't "need" the latest driver revision.
Can save time in some cases and is what we tend to do during testing
Natalie, how do you isolate the hex file out of the setup.exe from the driver ?
there are a few ways...
1st - You can just install the driver as usual, navigate to the hex file (located in c:\program files\fanatec\fanatec wheel) and copy and paste the "CSWV2_Base.hex" elsewhere (desktop for example, or to a USB if you do this on an alternate computer) then update the base using the newer hex file (from the newer driver package), using the "older driver" revision/installations update procedure "load hex"
2nd - You can use universal extractor (or 7Zip) to extract the files from the MSI container (can be messy and bork file names on occasion etc, so some further investigation may be required to source the correct file on these rare instances) This requires no installation and is essentially the same as "unzipping/extracting" the contents of a zip file
3rd - You can use a portable sandbox and install each new driver in the sandbox, copy the files required and delete the sandbox.
4th - You can run VM ware and have a vanilla test machine
The 2nd way is the fastest, easiest, most simple method possible... It's just simply.... Right click "extract here" and that's it
The 3rd way has zero interaction with your PC, runs exclusively within a sandbox and allows you to extract the files completely without risk of failed extraction and even to a ram drive etc.
Each installer is just a container, they are simply containers with a set of instructions (called up during installation) and can be unpacked (instructions amended/interrupted/bypassed) very simply, particularly MSI containers
I extract every driver set I receive, so that I can archive them for test purposes and help narrow down where a bug was first introduced.
It also allows me to revert/switch between firmware for any device at a click of a button, without having to get up or changing drivers
I use all these methods depending on where I am, what PC I'm on and what day of the week it is
Natalie, how do you isolate the hex file out of the setup.exe from the driver ?
there are a few ways...
1st - You can just install the driver as usual, navigate to the hex file and copy and paste the hex else where (desktop) 2nd - You can use universal extractor to extract the files from the container (can be messy and bork file names etc) 3rd - You can use a portable sandbox and install each new driver in the sandbox, copy the files required and delete the sandbox.
The 3rd way has zero interaction with your PC, runs exclusively within a sandbox and allows you to extract the files completely without risk of failed extraction.
I use all 3 methods depending on where I am, what PC I'm on and what day it is
You Mac users love to keep it simple ) but where's the fun in that :P
It's very simple really...
Windows users can simply install "7-zip" (www.7-zip.org) to allow them to extract the files (without installation) to a specific location...
Just do the following: install 7-zip (or grab their portable version that requires no installation) from www.7-zip.org Select "Fanatec_xx_driver_xxx.msi" (where x= bit/revision) Extract Done
Easy
If you already have 7-zip installed you already have/had the capability to do it all along
It's freeware, open source, fast, safe and reliable.
The thing I like about Fanatec, is that they have created a very smart and progressive Eco System.
For example, they allow their users the flexibility to make changes to their installation, Fanatec don't force "you" to use "their" configuration. They provide a recommended setup, but allow you freedom to move within (what are very wide) boundaries.
This is great as a consumer (and as a tester) as has been demonstrated here today with the different firmwares suiting different setups
For example: I deploy applications using SCCM which can require a lot of configuration (depending on the application being deployed). Some applications are notoriously difficult to work with, as they are riddled with unnecessary dependencies, bloat, user interaction etc. and can be incredibly difficult to deploy.
Speaking strictly In terms of their packaging, Fanatec have not only provided users with an incredibly lightweight package (all rolled up into a neat little industry standard Microsoft MSI for easy (standard) silent deployment/installation/extraction) they allow YOU to edit it and make those files easily accessible to all.
They also provide you with an alternate method to upgrading your firmware "load hex" and allow you to downgrade, mix and match your firmware (and drivers) AND to make modifications to your hardware (to a degree)
They really do cover all bases, and thats not an easy thing to do, they don't force their users into doing things their way, they don't patronise them or take them as fools. It's really quite impressive!
There are not many companies that can say/prove that they do all that for their users!
Great Hardware, Great Software, Great Community!
So I have Parallels on my Mac. Which Windows is the most stable for updating Fanatec Firmware?
I use a mixture of Win 7/8/10 but I have less issues with 7/8 currently, primarily due to Win10 being so new 7/8 are rock solid and give me zero issues, so both are a safe bet.
Omg...that I didn't think of that myself..hjust going to the program files....pfffff Okay Natalie, thnx!!!
I have moments like that daily where my brain is literally mocking me, so worry not
As of now I'm gonna create my own Fanatec hex file data base. So I can update the driver each time, but have access to older fw in 2 clicks!! Speaking of updating drivers...I do find it a little bit of a hassle to delete the driver first and then install the newer one before updating the gear. It would be much easier to USE simple update files for the existing driver overwriting the older files, in the program files folder. IF that's possible to create them ?
As of now I'm gonna create my own Fanatec hex file data base. So I can update the driver each time, but have access to older fw in 2 clicks!! Speaking of updating drivers...I do find it a little bit of a hassle to delete the driver first and then install the newer one before updating the gear. It would be much easier to USE simple update files for the existing driver overwriting the older files, in the program files folder. IF that's possible to create them ?
I don't uninstall my old drivers when installing new ones, I just install straight over the top.
The "uninstall old drivers" is usually the recommended way to do something (if the user has experienced a bug) to ensure that there are no hangovers from the previous (borked) installation.
Every time I receive a new driver, I just install straight over the top, I'd say your entirely safe to do the same, however IF you experience any driver issues, then first perform a clean installation before trying anything else
Hex database is a good idea, I do exactly the same thing to assist me in testing. It's very handy for stability too as you can test fir a few hours, then if you want to "race" online with friends, just load up the last stable firmware with 2 clicks
AFAIK, I don't believe the CSPv2 had a separate updatable firmware, I think they were updated, by updating the Wheel Base Firmware / PC Driver so they should be good as-is
Natalie, do you know if the firmware for the V3s are the same in driver V222 and V223? And was that also the default driver on delivery? Cause I updated only to latest fw and previous worked perfect for me.
Hello fellows Fanatecs. I'd just like to say that it's very refreshing to see all the positive interaction on the site now. Everyone is trying to help each other and help us (Fanatec) find and fix issues in a constructive manner. Keep up the good work and I wish everyone a great and safe weekend! Race on
I was thinking the same thing. If the whole world were Sim Racers it would be a better Place.
Now that the rotten apple has been removed there's nothing to be angry over anymore!!! Hope he's happy...all alone...with his master race... LMAO
Natalie, do you know if the firmware for the V3s are the same in driver V222 and V223? And was that also the default driver on delivery? Cause I updated only to latest fw and previous worked perfect for me.
I believe there were differences in the files. I can't check the firmware version at the moment (as my pedals are gone) but known technical differences are:
223 CSPv3 Hex is apx 480bytes larger (perhaps this is code modifications or simply rem/comments) 223 CSPv3 Hex has a newer/created modified date
So there was something done to the CSPv3 HEX file between 222 and 223 but it could simply be comments, code tidy up and could even simply be the file name changing etc (as there was a bizarre file name change between 222 and 223) ... (Aka. Nothing Important)
I'm not sure if they both register as "1.12" as I can't check at the moment (replacement pedals in transit) But I do know that the hex in 223 registered as "1.12"
So from a "technical" standpoint "yes" those files are different, but that doesn't mean they "actually" are
The default firmware on the CSPv3 was 1.7 I believe
Edit: 222 CSPv3 firmware registers as 1.8 (thanks nuno)
Then I'll start with backing up the hex files downward from driver V226 to V219...As there's still a problem with loading the hex files in the latest driverS. And give them all a try on pedals and base..
I have to say this was awesome help from you guys. Got the steering wheel to work but now a few questions/issues.
My shifter will not calibrate and it's the older csr elite 6 speed shifter. I followed the directions but still nothing.
Also can I use my turtle beach XO headset with the steering wheel or how do you guys communicate with others besides using the konnect?
Thanks a million
Headsets are a bit of a pain to use with a wheel, even when you get it working, if you have to restart your wheel, game, console it usually looses communication again.
For the standard headset I do the following: (I don't own the TB so not sure this will help you, but it's something)
Connect the headset to the controller Connect the controller to the console via USB (to stop it falling asleep and running out of battery) Power on the console via the connected controllers Xbox button Load/launch game with the pad At the "start game" screen (or press x screen etc) power on wheel and press the button to start the game (on the wheel)
You can now use the headset and the wheel together
I'm not sure if that will help with your issue, but that's how I get the standard headset to work with my wheel, on my console
What exactly is the issue with the shifter? Is it connected to the correct port on the back of your base (there are 2 on the CSWv2 for example) one is for SQ shifters only and the other for H+SQ Are you seeing the calibration option appear on the wheels LCD screen? What wheel do you have? What Rim do you have? What Firmware revision are you running?
I will try the headset stuff out soon, still trying to get this thing dialed in.
I'm running the 219/94 V2 with universal hub for xone Custom sparco wheel
I plugged it into the 1 that says "shifter", the calibration seems normal through the led screen but there is absolutely no communication
Hey, There are 2 inputs on the back of the V2 that say shifter
Shifter 1 - This is for H Pattern Shifters or H+SQ (such as the CSS-SQ etc) Shifter 2 - This is SQ Shifters only, and is used for add on items such as the Static Paddle Shifters etc.
Which one are you currently plugged into, as your device "needs" to be connected to "Shifter 1" to function correctly
PS4/ PCars Using FW116 on V2 wheel and FW 1.8 on V3 pedals sooo far sooo Good...No Random Loss of Full throttle.... Feels as if Pedals are Really Dialed into the V2 wheel... My Lap Times are Very Consistent and back to Running my Normal Times on my fav tracks... some times have improved a Tad bit...overall i have Not Noticed any Random events with this Wheel & FW combo.
im Liking FW 116 alot Wheel Feels Straight Level and Very Responsive. When i Plug into the PC Windows 7/64bit using the wheel/pedal set up tool All pedals Read as they are supposed to and the Random Brake Pedal input when the pedal is Not pressed seems to be Much Less than it was.
PS4/ PCars Using FW116 on V2 wheel and FW 1.8 on V3 pedals sooo far sooo Good...No Random Loss of Full throttle.... Feels as if Pedals are Really Dialed into the V2 wheel... My Lap Times are Very Consistent and back to Running my Normal Times on my fav tracks... some times have improved a Tad bit...overall i have Not Noticed any Random events with this Wheel & FW combo.
im Liking FW 116 alot Wheel Feels Straight Level and Very Responsive. When i Plug into the PC Windows 7/64bit using the wheel/pedal set up tool All pedals Read as they are supposed to and the Random Brake Pedal input when the pedal is Not pressed seems to be Much Less than it was.
Good to know Mr G I personally haven't tried 1.16 yet (Monday) so I'll try that against my previous fav and let you know how it feels
@Aoujaj if Forza allows mapping the HB to an axis, then I see no reason why not. It would be good to know for sure... But, if you can wait 2 more days I'll give you a 100% definitive answer my self (as the FM6 demo is out on Tuesday, so I will test it for you)
Again I praise the support from you forum members and my quietness means only 1 thing...I'm playing forza horizon 2 haha, fm5 is next one I'm about to put in.
Natalie - for the headset I did it the other way around. Started the entire thing up with the steering wheel and while driving around I turned on the other controller and boom I have sound through my headset and my controller is not plugged in but still stayed on. I tried it your way and my settings were instantly off and weird compared to how I tuned the wheel, may be different for everyone.
Ok now I'm curious here, what happened to the good old Auto Clutch feature (ACL)??? I miss that right now I get a huge delay on shifting with the paddle shifters like a shift without clutch, and it bounces off the rev limiter before shifting.
Natalie, do you know if the firmware for the V3s are the same in driver V222 and V223? And was that also the default driver on delivery? Cause I updated only to latest fw and previous worked perfect for me.
Driver 222 have (Firmware 1.8 for V3
Driver 223 have (Firmware 1.12 for v3
I tried 116 in CSW V2 and 1.12 in V3 but some times have the input issue on gas and brake. (Only in manual Cal works fine)
But in manual cal you lose the BrF.
Just the CSW firmware 110 have the ability do make manual cal and have the BrF option. This is what I have at the moment, and so far so good, only the fan issue is the negative thing but is better than fan issue in 116.
@ Khashy, glad to know you're up and running. I remember that somewhere in the blogs... there is a discussion on the auto clutch not being available in FM5 last couple of weeks either this blog or the one on pedals.
I see you a re an Xbox/Forza player from SoCal. If so and you are not aware of the Bing rewards program check it out . I use it and you get points for searches on Bing , 30 searches on a Pc and 20 searches on a mobile device gets you 25 points , for 500 point you can redeem them for a $5.00 gift card . I use them to purchase DLC and haven't paid for a car pack since they started the program. You can follow the link below , full disclosure if you reach a certain level I get point for referring you... but you are under no obligation to use the link... unfortuatly it seems to only be available in the US....
Again I praise the support from you forum members and my quietness means only 1 thing...I'm playing forza horizon 2 haha, fm5 is next one I'm about to put in.
Natalie - for the headset I did it the other way around. Started the entire thing up with the steering wheel and while driving around I turned on the other controller and boom I have sound through my headset and my controller is not plugged in but still stayed on. I tried it your way and my settings were instantly off and weird compared to how I tuned the wheel, may be different for everyone.
Ok now I'm curious here, what happened to the good old Auto Clutch feature (ACL)??? I miss that right now I get a huge delay on shifting with the paddle shifters like a shift without clutch, and it bounces off the rev limiter before shifting.
That's great :-bd The way I listed is actually the officially recommended way of connecting a wheel and headset to an XBO as directed by Microsoft and Thrustmaster. It's located on their site, and within their wheel user guide literature
It works well for me, so I tend to stick with that method, but remember, the best way, is the way that works for you. I take it you had the shifter in the wrong port
@nuno Good to know 222 registers at 1.8 (I mentioned that the files were in fact different, but without my pedals wasn't able to confirm what revision it was, so thanks for that)
Comments
@ Grimey, I tried the first Beta 222 but had issues and figured I'd leave the Beta testing to the pros . So far V219/94 has been working just fine for me, and since I am FM5 only at the moment I'm ok for now. Really I've been waiting to update when FM6 drops and see how that goes, since it will be the first Forza that Fanatec was in on before the release. From the early read I think it will be another shift to arcade,2 lap craziness ...it will keep me off the streets for a bit and by then you will have fixed Pcars/Fanatec marriage and Assetto-Corsa will be hitting the consoles
And you, Antoine, & Natalie deserve thanks for all the effort and time you have put in to helping us newbies get a better sim-race experience.
...
Another good idea is to grab a cheap second hand/refurbished Win 8 tablet, they are virtually giving them away over here with almost any purchase of an electrical item, eBay has loads of them (refurbished) for next to nothing and they are great for updating firmware etc.
I use a little 8" tablet attached to my RIG for things like firmware updates, calibration etc and watching TV during a race
Obviously a small charge is required, but it's insignificant compared to the benefits (also useful for those who's Mac is in another room etc) you can update, calibrate all without getting out of your seat (very convenient)
Something like this cheap little tablet, will allow users to update all fanatec hardware, is portable, can connect to your rig for telemetry, music, movies, TV, game streaming etc.
http://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/toshiba-encore-7-windows-8-1-tablet-refurbished-with-12-month-warranty-44-99-delivered-2241561
Additionally,
The current state of affairs appears to be (for users who want to keep brf in manual cal) for now:
CSPv3 Firmware 1.8
CSWv2 Firmware 110
Should give "some" user a consistent experience who want to keep the manual cal with brf feature.
This may be useful, as it will give users the option to continue to use this feature (although is by no means a recommendation) while we test the new firmware and iron out any bugs etc.
Remember you can keep the driver 222 (or whatever) installed on your PC, and just pick the hex file for the v2 base update sepererly. Just copy this from the folder of the new driver:
Unpack/install the latest driver.
Copy hex file from the latest driver to a folder of your choice.
Uninstall this driver installation.
Next
Install older driver version (222) for example, or your choice.
Now
Flash your pedals with this drivers firmware revision (1.8)
And then
Use the same drivers to update facility to update your wheel base "BUT" do not use the default file, select the "alternate hex file" you removed and stored, from the updated driver earlier
This way you don't need to keep jumping driver revisions if you are primarily using "consoles" and don't "need" the latest driver revision.
Can save time in some cases and is what we tend to do during testing
there are a few ways...
1st - You can just install the driver as usual, navigate to the hex file (located in c:\program files\fanatec\fanatec wheel) and copy and paste the "CSWV2_Base.hex" elsewhere (desktop for example, or to a USB if you do this on an alternate computer) then update the base using the newer hex file (from the newer driver package), using the "older driver" revision/installations update procedure "load hex"
2nd - You can use universal extractor (or 7Zip) to extract the files from the MSI container (can be messy and bork file names on occasion etc, so some further investigation may be required to source the correct file on these rare instances) This requires no installation and is essentially the same as "unzipping/extracting" the contents of a zip file
3rd - You can use a portable sandbox and install each new driver in the sandbox, copy the files required and delete the sandbox.
4th - You can run VM ware and have a vanilla test machine
The 2nd way is the fastest, easiest, most simple method possible... It's just simply.... Right click "extract here" and that's it
The 3rd way has zero interaction with your PC, runs exclusively within a sandbox and allows you to extract the files completely without risk of failed extraction and even to a ram drive etc.
Each installer is just a container, they are simply containers with a set of instructions (called up during installation) and can be unpacked (instructions amended/interrupted/bypassed) very simply, particularly MSI containers
I extract every driver set I receive, so that I can archive them for test purposes and help narrow down where a bug was first introduced.
It also allows me to revert/switch between firmware for any device at a click of a button, without having to get up or changing drivers
I use all these methods depending on where I am, what PC I'm on and what day of the week it is
Thats why I'm a Mac user LOL
It's very simple really...
Windows users can simply install "7-zip" (www.7-zip.org) to allow them to extract the files (without installation) to a specific location...
Just do the following:
install 7-zip (or grab their portable version that requires no installation) from www.7-zip.org
Select "Fanatec_xx_driver_xxx.msi" (where x= bit/revision)
Extract
Done
Easy
If you already have 7-zip installed you already have/had the capability to do it all along
It's freeware, open source, fast, safe and reliable.
Happy Days
Okay Natalie, thnx!!!
For example, they allow their users the flexibility to make changes to their installation, Fanatec don't force "you" to use "their" configuration.
They provide a recommended setup, but allow you freedom to move within (what are very wide) boundaries.
This is great as a consumer (and as a tester) as has been demonstrated here today with the different firmwares suiting different setups
For example:
I deploy applications using SCCM which can require a lot of configuration (depending on the application being deployed). Some applications are notoriously difficult to work with, as they are riddled with unnecessary dependencies, bloat, user interaction etc. and can be incredibly difficult to deploy.
Speaking strictly In terms of their packaging, Fanatec have not only provided users with an incredibly lightweight package (all rolled up into a neat little industry standard Microsoft MSI for easy (standard) silent deployment/installation/extraction) they allow YOU to edit it and make those files easily accessible to all.
They also provide you with an alternate method to upgrading your firmware "load hex" and allow you to downgrade, mix and match your firmware (and drivers) AND to make modifications to your hardware (to a degree)
They really do cover all bases, and thats not an easy thing to do, they don't force their users into doing things their way, they don't patronise them or take them as fools. It's really quite impressive!
There are not many companies that can say/prove that they do all that for their users!
Great Hardware, Great Software, Great Community!
I use a mixture of Win 7/8/10 but I have less issues with 7/8 currently, primarily due to Win10 being so new
I have moments like that daily where my brain is literally mocking me, so worry not
Speaking of updating drivers...I do find it a little bit of a hassle to delete the driver first and then install the newer one before updating the gear. It would be much easier to USE simple update files for the existing driver overwriting the older files, in the program files folder. IF that's possible to create them ?
I don't uninstall my old drivers when installing new ones, I just install straight over the top.
The "uninstall old drivers" is usually the recommended way to do something (if the user has experienced a bug) to ensure that there are no hangovers from the previous (borked) installation.
Every time I receive a new driver, I just install straight over the top, I'd say your entirely safe to do the same, however IF you experience any driver issues, then first perform a clean installation before trying anything else
Hex database is a good idea, I do exactly the same thing to assist me in testing. It's very handy for stability too as you can test fir a few hours, then if you want to "race" online with friends, just load up the last stable firmware with 2 clicks
Just watching that now, thanks for the link
AFAIK, I don't believe the CSPv2 had a separate updatable firmware, I think they were updated, by updating the Wheel Base Firmware / PC Driver so they should be good as-is
I believe there were differences in the files.
I can't check the firmware version at the moment (as my pedals are gone) but known technical differences are:
223 CSPv3 Hex is apx 480bytes larger (perhaps this is code modifications or simply rem/comments)
223 CSPv3 Hex has a newer/created modified date
So there was something done to the CSPv3 HEX file between 222 and 223 but it could simply be comments, code tidy up and could even simply be the file name changing etc (as there was a bizarre file name change between 222 and 223) ... (Aka. Nothing Important)
I'm not sure if they both register as "1.12" as I can't check at the moment (replacement pedals in transit)
But I do know that the hex in 223 registered as "1.12"
So from a "technical" standpoint "yes" those files are different, but that doesn't mean they "actually" are
The default firmware on the CSPv3 was 1.7 I believe
Edit:
222 CSPv3 firmware registers as 1.8 (thanks nuno)
My shifter will not calibrate and it's the older csr elite 6 speed shifter. I followed the directions but still nothing.
Also can I use my turtle beach XO headset with the steering wheel or how do you guys communicate with others besides using the konnect?
Thanks a million
Headsets are a bit of a pain to use with a wheel, even when you get it working, if you have to restart your wheel, game, console it usually looses communication again.
For the standard headset I do the following:
(I don't own the TB so not sure this will help you, but it's something)
Connect the headset to the controller
Connect the controller to the console via USB (to stop it falling asleep and running out of battery)
Power on the console via the connected controllers Xbox button
Load/launch game with the pad
At the "start game" screen (or press x screen etc) power on wheel and press the button to start the game (on the wheel)
You can now use the headset and the wheel together
I'm not sure if that will help with your issue, but that's how I get the standard headset to work with my wheel, on my console
What exactly is the issue with the shifter?
Is it connected to the correct port on the back of your base (there are 2 on the CSWv2 for example) one is for SQ shifters only and the other for H+SQ
Are you seeing the calibration option appear on the wheels LCD screen?
What wheel do you have?
What Rim do you have?
What Firmware revision are you running?
I'm running the 219/94
V2 with universal hub for xone
Custom sparco wheel
I plugged it into the 1 that says "shifter", the calibration seems normal through the led screen but there is absolutely no communication
Hey,
There are 2 inputs on the back of the V2 that say shifter
Shifter 1 - This is for H Pattern Shifters or H+SQ (such as the CSS-SQ etc)
Shifter 2 - This is SQ Shifters only, and is used for add on items such as the Static Paddle Shifters etc.
Which one are you currently plugged into, as your device "needs" to be connected to "Shifter 1" to function correctly
im Liking FW 116 alot Wheel Feels Straight Level and Very Responsive.
When i Plug into the PC Windows 7/64bit using the wheel/pedal set up tool All pedals Read as they are supposed to and the Random Brake Pedal input when the pedal is Not pressed seems to be Much Less than it was.
Good to know Mr G
I personally haven't tried 1.16 yet (Monday) so I'll try that against my previous fav and let you know how it feels
@Aoujaj if Forza allows mapping the HB to an axis, then I see no reason why not.
It would be good to know for sure... But, if you can wait 2 more days I'll give you a 100% definitive answer my self (as the FM6 demo is out on Tuesday, so I will test it for you)
Natalie - for the headset I did it the other way around. Started the entire thing up with the steering wheel and while driving around I turned on the other controller and boom I have sound through my headset and my controller is not plugged in but still stayed on. I tried it your way and my settings were instantly off and weird compared to how I tuned the wheel, may be different for everyone.
Ok now I'm curious here, what happened to the good old Auto Clutch feature (ACL)??? I miss that
@ Khashy, glad to know you're up and running. I remember that somewhere in the blogs... there is a discussion on the auto clutch not being available in FM5 last couple of weeks either this blog or the one on pedals.
I see you a re an Xbox/Forza player from SoCal. If so and you are not aware of the Bing rewards program check it out . I use it and you get points for searches on Bing , 30 searches on a Pc and 20 searches on a mobile device gets you 25 points , for 500 point you can redeem them for a $5.00 gift card . I use them to purchase DLC and haven't paid for a car pack since they started the program. You can follow the link below , full disclosure if you reach a certain level I get point for referring you... but you are under no obligation to use the link... unfortuatly it seems to only be available in the US....
https://www.bing.com/explore/rewards?PUBL=REFERAFRIEND&CREA=RAW&rrid=_08a9aca4-257c-0130-463c-23a30014a97a
That's great :-bd
The way I listed is actually the officially recommended way of connecting a wheel and headset to an XBO as directed by Microsoft and Thrustmaster. It's located on their site, and within their wheel user guide literature
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00142.pdf#page2
It works well for me, so I tend to stick with that method, but remember, the best way, is the way that works for you. I take it you had the shifter in the wrong port
@nuno Good to know 222 registers at 1.8 (I mentioned that the files were in fact different, but without my pedals wasn't able to confirm what revision it was, so thanks for that)