CSL Elite PS4 (+): Loose/Disconnected FFB Feeling 2
Jul Wal
Member
Link to the original thread on 2nd page: https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/1625/csl-elite-ps4-loose-disconnected-ffb-feeling#latest
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Last friday my unit arrived without further explanations from Fanatec, but after quick testing the issue is still present...
Here's the continuous jarring feel / buzzing noise it often make in games with more detailed FFB, once FEI is ~70... The more FFB detail there is the worse it gets; it's not direct feedback, just self-aligning torgue and disconnected rumbling:
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Here is another example of the behavior... You don't even need high FFB -values to simulate this, but FEI was set to 60 for recording purpose - Notice very low in-game FFB only 1-1:
Stronger and faster forces only cause these hollow snaps/pops that barely have any impact in the steering, also due to this it's peak power remain very low and steering is weak: look how the right paddle shifter barely moves, although i gently hold the rim. Whenever i crash or drive over a box curb; there's just a empty snap inside the base.
Sure lower FEI fixes the noise, but i guarantee that the loose behavior is there even if it didn't make such noise... (Not a solution, as subtle details are already missing on higher values)
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I find it odd how many are comparing it to a CSW when i can't even feel rumble strips properly; and once again when trying to fix it by trying recommeneded FEI values, it only cause louder noises and even more disconnected feel from the wheelbase - It's not tight or direct.
Site note: when doing slalom it feels like the motor is still pushing to that direction which kills the feeling of the car; instead of feeling suspension/tyres there's always this faulty "feeling of loose driveshaft"...
Can't believe how this is acceptable... Anyone else experiencing similiar or is it just me?
Thanks.
Comments
From these videos I can see that there is a lot of flex in your cockpit. Are you sure this lack of detail in the FFB is not due to this?
+1. And those noises coming from the CSL Elite are normal I would say. I had the same noises, when I had one for several weeks.
It's hardmounted to a Wheelstand Pro which itself makes "squeaky sound" when moved, but otherwise it's very rigid and quiet with very mimal flex... (At least not noisy flex)
There's literally that much activity inside the base that it looks poorly attatched, yet i can barely feel the detail: the wheel rim stays still.
Doesn't matter wheter it's The Karussel or weaker rumble strips; there is a feeling of disconnection and it's present even with very low FFB values on higher FEI -values. The motor just fights itself left and right, making noises varying from mild "buzzing" to loud "snaps".
P.S I know exactly how strong and reactive it should be. And how detailed AC's FFB is, but currently i can feel just a remants of it - It's just noise.
P.S.S On FEI value >50 it's strength varies regarding to game's (AC) FFB details: e.g cobblestone sector, bumpy roads (old Silverstone), tire flatspots etc... All of it causes more blurry disconnected rumbling inside the base.
Can you elaborate where exactly do you see flexing? In the end of the first video, i crash into the wall without any flex from the rig... I mean if you line it up with the TV screen, there's absolutely no flex... But there's the snap i already mentioned!
How is this a "+1 or thumps up", i don't understand... In your case which caused the noise, was it your rig or the the wheelbase?
Don't you have the DD at the moment, right? Why did you use it for few weeks only, what made you move forward so quickly? When did you buy it, or was it PS4 compatible?
Thanks.
At the beginning of the second video (because it is best seen) and even when you crash the wheel base vibrates quite strongly which should be transmitted to the steering wheel, but is not because it is dampened by the flex of your Wheelstand Pro.
I guarantee you that if you attach the wheel base to something much more solid you will feel a lot more detail in the FFB.
Hi Jul, +1 just means I agree with what Hristo wrote. The noises coming from the Wheelbase are normal. I switched to a CSW V2.5 because of the noises.
Can you try to attach your wheel to a strong desk maybe and see if the loss of detail might come from your Wheelstand?
I hope you didn't get tricked by camera focus/zoom there...
And i do get your point, but that's not the case here, as this behaviour starts from very low FFB's... I admit that the rig can be moved up/down freely, but that movement can't be seen in the video - Just mild vibration which itself isn't enough to nullify such FFB details.
I know how AC's is and how it varies depending on surface etc. - It gets the FFB signal from the game, but somehow fails to provite it to my hands... It's strength doesn't matter, other than in these cases i could record the behaviour.
The noise is definitely coming from the Wheelbase.
P.S. Maybe it's difficult to understand from the videos, but just notice how much activity there is and how badly it tries to deliver it to the rim - There isn't that much flex in the rig.
Steering feel in normal driving is indirect and the motor rumbles there as well, but that's impossible to show... Disconnected left-right movement while the rim is absolutely still = Hence i chose Mclaren P1 because it's tight handling pronounces it; and that's exactly what you heard.
Not to mention i've used the same Wheelstand Pro since April 2018 and had my first CSL Elite Ps4 clamped for few months before hardmounting.
Occasional CSL rattling was the only noise it made and possible flexing from the clamp definitely didn't dampen FFB -details, at least not to a degree to be noticed... The unit itself felt absolutely great and gave good fight! Unlike this one.
Then i'd have to clamp it which causes more flexing. Wheelstand Pro isn't that stable, but it's very sturdy as it's just a T-bar... There's very small movement if i apply my strength and body weight.
The reason for this noise is because inside these bases are 4 fix mounted sprockets. The main one being the wheel, then to the right as you look at it is 2 slave rollers, 1 above the other (both fixed in position) then there's the motor in the far right mounted with 2 small alan keys bolts. I had the same noise/rattle and in the end it did my head in that much I decided to investgate it. Took the face cover off and checked the belt and there's play in it coz it's slack, ok happy days, Where's the adjuster? yeh, there isn't one and how fanatec didn't figure this would be an issue later down the line is beyond me. BUT there is a solution depending how big ya balls are. The lower mount hole of the 2 that hold the motor in place is key, take the bolt out elongate the hole (to make your adjusting point), DON'T do anything with the top on coz that your pivot point and what that gives you is a way to put more or less tension into the belt. You don't need to go mad with the hole, double the size of the original was more than enough for me, don't make the actual hole any larger vertically just to the right. You don't need to put massive tension in the belt either just enough to lightly take the slack out. I placed a magnet on the from and rear of the plate your modding to catch the swarf which I'd highly recommend doing coz there's a few very small, very important magnetic parts, 1 being on the back of the motor. Hope this helps someone out I know how frustrating that noise is.
Cheers.
As far as I understand, this is your suggestion:
This is what the holes for the electric motor look like:
Extend only the bottom hole to the right:
This will allow to rotate the bottom of the electric motor to the right and add more tension to the belt.
The shape of the hole will have to follow this circle for the electric motor to rotate freely:
And I'm not sure if over time the electric motor will not return to the left to its original position, because the belt will try to pull back, which will loosen the belt.