You are probably right David. I had the BMW GT2 wheel before, but I've honestly lost track of what firmware goes with what wheel. The version 12 test firmware is mentioned in this thread and the 365 beta thread as a fix for the freeze issue, but you're right, if firmware 12 doesn't apply to the BMW wheel, then it seems like the problem would have to be the driver (or maybe some other firmware that is common to all wheels). I also haven't seen anybody mention whether that firmware 12 worked for them, which seems odd given that this is a catastrophic problem when it occurs in a real race. It's 3:20 AM here as I write this -- got up just to try to keep the discussion moving forward because this is a huge, huge problem for me after Le Mans 24 hours debacle and with Spa 24 hours in 8 days.
I wish Fanatec would chime in and provide some guidance. Your point about the BMW wheel not having the firmware would seem to merit clarification.
I found this thread that suggests that the wheel freeze/disconnect problem might be caused by the connector. Reaaligning the center contact session and using a set screw on the wheel seemed to help. This is the thread that discusses it -> https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/1746/podium-f1-wheel-freezes
Why isn't anyone on my Fanatec support case suggesting any of this??? Why isn't anybody from Fanatec providing information to help solve this catastrophic problem? Why do I have to search to find stuff on my own??? Why can't we capture data to send Fanatec when this problem happens (since it is very difficult to reproduce)??? I very much appreciate that a steering wheel firmware patch was posted -- but that was in May and it is now July and there is still almost no information to solve this problem.
· I Found a Fix of sorts (dont want to read the rant go to the bottom for the solution :) -
Well I am glad I ended up here, I have had the DD1 since about last year it came with the limited edition Gold/Black F1 rim. My first DD wheel after using a G25 for about 7 years.
The utopia of owning a DD wheel soon dissipated a little, when I noticed for the first time the Formula rim lose the display data and the "F" replaced it on the screen. I read a couple of posts that were all pointing to a firmware update issue and potentially a new one on the horizon. It was a few and far between situation with this issue, so it didn't really bother me all that much to be honest. I did have at least 3 or 4 issues though of another nature. They usually happened just after a fairly big FFB spike (oversteer, car contact etc.) where the wheel would lose all FFB and buttons stop working on the BME. You would sometimes get an issue where you could spin the wheel forever, and no FFB and not imputing anything to the game either, this also happened in a couple of iRacing races as well.
I then saw the Porsche GT3 BME wheel go up for pre-order and had to have it. It landed in about January in AUS. loved it straight out of the box, after finally working out that I needed the latest drivers and missed a step to get ITM working. loaded up ACC and iRacing and working great and massivley impressed. About a few days in I really noticed the issues with the ITM display, would be replaced with a Fanatec logo, then it would switch to Legacy, and no way of getting it back to ITM, unless you powered down the wheel. Not a total deal breaker but if you are relying on that info in the race e.g. FOV and camera option set, then it’s pretty darn frustrating.
The more I raced the more I realised there was more going on than just the ITM to Legacy issue. The same issues as what was happening with the formula rim were popping up. I would get the Fanatec logo and then lose all FFB and buttons on the BME module. Sometimes you could still turn the wheel and finish the race (or not) with 0 buttons and sometimes no paddle shifters either, sometimes only the word Fanatec on the display or just blank. I had 2 laps to go in an ACC race the other night when it happended and I was locked in 6 gear in the wet and no FBB to feel what the car is doing, but at least the wheel was still imputing to the sim, but frustrating as hell.
The Porsche BME wheel also had the issue where the wheel is completely disconnected from the sim and no FBB. To give you an idea of the situation and what I was learning to live with, and pretty much since the unboxing I would power the DD1 up, with the BME wheel connected set it to ITM load either ACC or iRacing. At the most I would be lucky to get maybe 5 - 15 laps before a FFB spike would can the ITM option and I would be back at Legacy again until I decided to do a wheel power cycle.
So why didnt I send it back, well Covid happened and in Aus paying for postage, and the forums were hinting this might be getting a fix in the form of a software update. But that said, having a background in mechanics and the consistency of the issue, that always seemed to coincide with an FFB spike, to me the Spidey senses were telling me it seemed like a hardware fault, with either the DD1 QR Wheel base side and or the wheel rim QR saide as well. Since the Porsche Wheel had more issues than the F1 wheel I was thinking the issue might be on both sides. I was about to take it apart to ensure no loose wires when I read this
I put a set screw (M6*16mm) in the bolt hole on the quick release to further secure the rim and the freezing's gone. Marcel Pfister suggested that it probably is a hardware issue. So I adjusted the connector pins a tiny bit. Now I don't need the extra set screw, the freezing didn't happen again.
So I found myself a M6 Cap screw that was 16mm I slide the QR sleeve up towards the rim as the recess is not large enough for the cap screw to fit inside so once I screwed it down semi firm (not too tight) I then let go of the QR sleeve which is not properly returning now all the way, maybe only a 1/3 of travel. Ideally what I will do get the M6 cap screw head on the grinder to reduce its diametre so the then it will locate in the sleeve recess. I think only need to take a fraction off.
So tried to put as much detail in here as possible, so in the event others are experiencing the same issue and stumble across this. Tonight I can confirm for the first time and after ay least 3 hours of use in both ACC and iRacing competing in Online races as well. The wheel did not miss a beat perfect :). ITM for the first time stayed on from power up to power down of the wheel. My goodness thank god it does work as intended, I have honestly been too scared to race in iRacing through fear of losing my wheel mid race.
So a couple of things I noticed firstly something I was doing wrong. 1st. Make sure you always do the adjusting nut on the DD1 up so the slip ring is just putting the slightest amount of pressure on the expansion rubber. this allows the wheel to get a good connection so when you do the wheel up you will only see a few millimetres of rubber exposed past the QR on the wheel side.
Do up the M6 x 16 bolt just use an Allen key to do it up, but dont go nuts with the torque just firm, and then release the QR sleeve, yes it is no longer a quick release as it was intended, but reading ing here, those of you in competitive eSports guys, seriously I would not race another race without doing this. If for other Also my personal thoughts are that, if you dont do this something will eventually break around the pin connector.
Fanatec if you are reading this, I will test this over the rest of the week/weeks and report back with both the F1 2018 rim and the Porsche BME. Yes I would like a better solution than this considering I paid for the privilege for sure. But at least it is working and I am not stressing it is going to breal now. To me this is not and never was a software issue it needs a redesign/rethink of the QR system. if something could be replaced on both sides that would be great. Thinking a solution similar to Simagic QR that has a flat circuit connector on the wheel base side that is in the shape similar to the WiFi logo, and on the wheel rim side it has spring loaded pins that rest against it. The WIFI shape allows for the smallest amount of rotational movement without losing any connection and the pins being spring loaded.
I do understand a fix of this nature will impact the entire Fanatec eco system, but lets face it when Fanatec designed the QR interface they werent dealing with 25nm wheel bases, but now they are.
Solution: 1 x M6 x 16mm Cap screw cost about $1.00 AUD :)
I just got bit by this bug for the first time last night. Have run a few 6-hour races prior to this after I got my DD1 and Porsche/BME setup about a month ago. Wheel went dead on the last lap at Road America in the HPD in the LeMans series...running 3rd and BOOM into the wall with no control. Very frustrating. I suppose I'm willing to go back to 346 for stability, but hate to lose the functionality of the BME and buttons. Any update?
Mine does the same. 1 day old ps4 dd1. Wheel drops out completely mid race or my pedals switch randomly or if i dont touch the base for a couple mins it will disconnect...
30 mins later Edit: now it has even more problems. Severe lag input and the shifting only works every 2 or 3 clicks whrn useming paddle shifting method.
I’ve had the same issue start happening in the last week with my DD1 PS4 F1 set up. I’ve been using the week actively for the last 4 weeks, so after 3 weeks it has started.
Behavior: I start paying GT Sport in a 13 lap (~20min game). For the last two races the wheel has stopped about 15mins into the race. Both times, mid-corner the wheel looses FFB and no buttons or rotation of the wheel is recognized by PS4. The wheel display also turns off. Only way to restore it is to hold power button to restart wheel. It starts with the DD1 display just showing logo for longer than normal, the DD1 fan spins up to full speed and then it sits there for around 10mins with the DD1 fan on full, the DD1 display is in a normal state, but the wheel buttons are non-responsive. After 10 mins, the wheel does its auto-center routine and then it starts working again normally!
Things I’ve tried:
I’ve tried fully power cycling it including the power brick
I’ve downgraded the firmware to v346 as recommended in this thread
This has made no difference and this problem now happens EVERY time I drive a race over 15mins and happens around the 15min mark.
Thoughts...
Logically this would seem to be what you’d likely see with an overheating type situation, but the fan never spins up while I’m driving so I don’t think it is getting that hot... maybe it should be spinning up? I’m only running the power at 65% without the high torque key.
Before this started happening, I think I was only driving shorter races of <15mins each, with gaps between. So that maybe gave the wheel time to cool down...
When should the DD1 fan be spinning up? Should it happen during most races?
Can you please advise what I can do as I’m not able to race any races over 15mins!
The Podium DDs have different Fan Stages hardcoded into a fan-curve.
Its 600-660 RPM up until 45°C Motor Temp. Then its 1100-1160RPM up until I think 65°C Motor Temp and you will most likely never go above 65°C Motor Temp so you will most likely never have the third Fan Speed at 2200 RPM and max Fan Speed of 4000 RPM, at 110°C Motor Temp.
The DDs have such a great cooling system that max Temp I have ever saw was 58°C Motor Temp, so second Fan speed.
So your issue ist very likely no issue with too much heat.
My button module doesn't work, I lose FFB during a race, and since last week the wheel base shuts off on impact. If I hit a car or a barrier, the wheel base just shuts off. I spent my entire weekend trying to find a solution. I tried everything that was suggested on the forum, and I tried all drivers from 346 to the most recent driver and firmware available. The problem persist.
I can't participate in any races. I am extremely disappointed
I was up to date with all of the drivers and firmware, before this problem started occurring last week. I went back to driver 346 and firmware 2, and then worked my way up one version at a time. I am back where I started with driver 373 and firmware 3.
1. Can those who have had problems with freezing rims update us as they are today? Did you get a definitive solution? Those who had tried some alternatives with the pins and downgrade, the problem is gone? Are you already on driver 400 without the same problems or is there still an indication to return to 346?
Maurice and Marcell,
- My DD1 + Formula V2 set is constantly freezing where the FFB is lost and the buttons are locked. Intermittently. I recently had Driver 372 installed and had a hardware problem. I sent it for repair to the US Fanatec and started using a V2 base and started updating the Beta drivers until version 399. When the DD1 returned from RMA, I assembled it and in the first hours I started to have the problem. I downgraded to the previous one and updated the QR and did the updates again until I reached the current 400 driver. The problem still occurs.
I have three steering wheels at home (two V2s - one with padlle - and one BMW GT2) and the same problem occurs with everyone. And only in DD1, base V2 normally works with any of the three steering wheels.
I did tests isolating the power connection of the DD1 and placing it directly connected to several USB (I have already changed the cables). The only thing that was different between the DD1 repair time, was the addition of two more arduinos (One Dash and one Led RPM). Running at the same time I have a JRT (Joel Real Time) and SimHub controlling 3 arduino and 3 Shakers).
I've done several tests and the freezing problem still occurs (there is no exact frequency - there are days that I run 3 hours and days that I run 15 minutes to give the problem. But every day it occurs).
Comments
You are probably right David. I had the BMW GT2 wheel before, but I've honestly lost track of what firmware goes with what wheel. The version 12 test firmware is mentioned in this thread and the 365 beta thread as a fix for the freeze issue, but you're right, if firmware 12 doesn't apply to the BMW wheel, then it seems like the problem would have to be the driver (or maybe some other firmware that is common to all wheels). I also haven't seen anybody mention whether that firmware 12 worked for them, which seems odd given that this is a catastrophic problem when it occurs in a real race. It's 3:20 AM here as I write this -- got up just to try to keep the discussion moving forward because this is a huge, huge problem for me after Le Mans 24 hours debacle and with Spa 24 hours in 8 days.
I wish Fanatec would chime in and provide some guidance. Your point about the BMW wheel not having the firmware would seem to merit clarification.
I found this thread that suggests that the wheel freeze/disconnect problem might be caused by the connector. Reaaligning the center contact session and using a set screw on the wheel seemed to help. This is the thread that discusses it -> https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/1746/podium-f1-wheel-freezes
Why isn't anyone on my Fanatec support case suggesting any of this??? Why isn't anybody from Fanatec providing information to help solve this catastrophic problem? Why do I have to search to find stuff on my own??? Why can't we capture data to send Fanatec when this problem happens (since it is very difficult to reproduce)??? I very much appreciate that a steering wheel firmware patch was posted -- but that was in May and it is now July and there is still almost no information to solve this problem.
· I Found a Fix of sorts (dont want to read the rant go to the bottom for the solution :) -
Well I am glad I ended up here, I have had the DD1 since about last year it came with the limited edition Gold/Black F1 rim. My first DD wheel after using a G25 for about 7 years.
The utopia of owning a DD wheel soon dissipated a little, when I noticed for the first time the Formula rim lose the display data and the "F" replaced it on the screen. I read a couple of posts that were all pointing to a firmware update issue and potentially a new one on the horizon. It was a few and far between situation with this issue, so it didn't really bother me all that much to be honest. I did have at least 3 or 4 issues though of another nature. They usually happened just after a fairly big FFB spike (oversteer, car contact etc.) where the wheel would lose all FFB and buttons stop working on the BME. You would sometimes get an issue where you could spin the wheel forever, and no FFB and not imputing anything to the game either, this also happened in a couple of iRacing races as well.
I then saw the Porsche GT3 BME wheel go up for pre-order and had to have it. It landed in about January in AUS. loved it straight out of the box, after finally working out that I needed the latest drivers and missed a step to get ITM working. loaded up ACC and iRacing and working great and massivley impressed. About a few days in I really noticed the issues with the ITM display, would be replaced with a Fanatec logo, then it would switch to Legacy, and no way of getting it back to ITM, unless you powered down the wheel. Not a total deal breaker but if you are relying on that info in the race e.g. FOV and camera option set, then it’s pretty darn frustrating.
The more I raced the more I realised there was more going on than just the ITM to Legacy issue. The same issues as what was happening with the formula rim were popping up. I would get the Fanatec logo and then lose all FFB and buttons on the BME module. Sometimes you could still turn the wheel and finish the race (or not) with 0 buttons and sometimes no paddle shifters either, sometimes only the word Fanatec on the display or just blank. I had 2 laps to go in an ACC race the other night when it happended and I was locked in 6 gear in the wet and no FBB to feel what the car is doing, but at least the wheel was still imputing to the sim, but frustrating as hell.
The Porsche BME wheel also had the issue where the wheel is completely disconnected from the sim and no FBB. To give you an idea of the situation and what I was learning to live with, and pretty much since the unboxing I would power the DD1 up, with the BME wheel connected set it to ITM load either ACC or iRacing. At the most I would be lucky to get maybe 5 - 15 laps before a FFB spike would can the ITM option and I would be back at Legacy again until I decided to do a wheel power cycle.
So why didnt I send it back, well Covid happened and in Aus paying for postage, and the forums were hinting this might be getting a fix in the form of a software update. But that said, having a background in mechanics and the consistency of the issue, that always seemed to coincide with an FFB spike, to me the Spidey senses were telling me it seemed like a hardware fault, with either the DD1 QR Wheel base side and or the wheel rim QR saide as well. Since the Porsche Wheel had more issues than the F1 wheel I was thinking the issue might be on both sides. I was about to take it apart to ensure no loose wires when I read this
I put a set screw (M6*16mm) in the bolt hole on the quick release to further secure the rim and the freezing's gone. Marcel Pfister suggested that it probably is a hardware issue. So I adjusted the connector pins a tiny bit. Now I don't need the extra set screw, the freezing didn't happen again.
So I found myself a M6 Cap screw that was 16mm I slide the QR sleeve up towards the rim as the recess is not large enough for the cap screw to fit inside so once I screwed it down semi firm (not too tight) I then let go of the QR sleeve which is not properly returning now all the way, maybe only a 1/3 of travel. Ideally what I will do get the M6 cap screw head on the grinder to reduce its diametre so the then it will locate in the sleeve recess. I think only need to take a fraction off.
So tried to put as much detail in here as possible, so in the event others are experiencing the same issue and stumble across this. Tonight I can confirm for the first time and after ay least 3 hours of use in both ACC and iRacing competing in Online races as well. The wheel did not miss a beat perfect :). ITM for the first time stayed on from power up to power down of the wheel. My goodness thank god it does work as intended, I have honestly been too scared to race in iRacing through fear of losing my wheel mid race.
So a couple of things I noticed firstly something I was doing wrong. 1st. Make sure you always do the adjusting nut on the DD1 up so the slip ring is just putting the slightest amount of pressure on the expansion rubber. this allows the wheel to get a good connection so when you do the wheel up you will only see a few millimetres of rubber exposed past the QR on the wheel side.
Do up the M6 x 16 bolt just use an Allen key to do it up, but dont go nuts with the torque just firm, and then release the QR sleeve, yes it is no longer a quick release as it was intended, but reading ing here, those of you in competitive eSports guys, seriously I would not race another race without doing this. If for other Also my personal thoughts are that, if you dont do this something will eventually break around the pin connector.
Fanatec if you are reading this, I will test this over the rest of the week/weeks and report back with both the F1 2018 rim and the Porsche BME. Yes I would like a better solution than this considering I paid for the privilege for sure. But at least it is working and I am not stressing it is going to breal now. To me this is not and never was a software issue it needs a redesign/rethink of the QR system. if something could be replaced on both sides that would be great. Thinking a solution similar to Simagic QR that has a flat circuit connector on the wheel base side that is in the shape similar to the WiFi logo, and on the wheel rim side it has spring loaded pins that rest against it. The WIFI shape allows for the smallest amount of rotational movement without losing any connection and the pins being spring loaded.
I do understand a fix of this nature will impact the entire Fanatec eco system, but lets face it when Fanatec designed the QR interface they werent dealing with 25nm wheel bases, but now they are.
Solution: 1 x M6 x 16mm Cap screw cost about $1.00 AUD :)
Hi there,
I use my new DD1, R330 and podium hub for a week now.
Fresh install using all last "beta" drivers
I mostly play Iracing and F1 2020
everything was fine until this last weekend
Got my wheel disconnect when I was playing F1 game.
At first, I thought was game crash issue or something.
but it happened twice on Iracing as well.
and let me tell you guys that its not goor for iRating snd SR!!!!!
when I get disconnection, I tried to open wheel property but it freezes..
The only fix to get it working again is to restart computer.
I read a lot but seems no real fix yet.
I'm afraid to start new race,
I just got bit by this bug for the first time last night. Have run a few 6-hour races prior to this after I got my DD1 and Porsche/BME setup about a month ago. Wheel went dead on the last lap at Road America in the HPD in the LeMans series...running 3rd and BOOM into the wall with no control. Very frustrating. I suppose I'm willing to go back to 346 for stability, but hate to lose the functionality of the BME and buttons. Any update?
Mine does the same. 1 day old ps4 dd1. Wheel drops out completely mid race or my pedals switch randomly or if i dont touch the base for a couple mins it will disconnect...
30 mins later Edit: now it has even more problems. Severe lag input and the shifting only works every 2 or 3 clicks whrn useming paddle shifting method.
I’ve had the same issue start happening in the last week with my DD1 PS4 F1 set up. I’ve been using the week actively for the last 4 weeks, so after 3 weeks it has started.
Behavior: I start paying GT Sport in a 13 lap (~20min game). For the last two races the wheel has stopped about 15mins into the race. Both times, mid-corner the wheel looses FFB and no buttons or rotation of the wheel is recognized by PS4. The wheel display also turns off. Only way to restore it is to hold power button to restart wheel. It starts with the DD1 display just showing logo for longer than normal, the DD1 fan spins up to full speed and then it sits there for around 10mins with the DD1 fan on full, the DD1 display is in a normal state, but the wheel buttons are non-responsive. After 10 mins, the wheel does its auto-center routine and then it starts working again normally!
Things I’ve tried:
This has made no difference and this problem now happens EVERY time I drive a race over 15mins and happens around the 15min mark.
Thoughts...
When should the DD1 fan be spinning up? Should it happen during most races?
Can you please advise what I can do as I’m not able to race any races over 15mins!
The Podium DDs have different Fan Stages hardcoded into a fan-curve.
Its 600-660 RPM up until 45°C Motor Temp. Then its 1100-1160RPM up until I think 65°C Motor Temp and you will most likely never go above 65°C Motor Temp so you will most likely never have the third Fan Speed at 2200 RPM and max Fan Speed of 4000 RPM, at 110°C Motor Temp.
The DDs have such a great cooling system that max Temp I have ever saw was 58°C Motor Temp, so second Fan speed.
So your issue ist very likely no issue with too much heat.
Is there a solution found for this problem?
My button module doesn't work, I lose FFB during a race, and since last week the wheel base shuts off on impact. If I hit a car or a barrier, the wheel base just shuts off. I spent my entire weekend trying to find a solution. I tried everything that was suggested on the forum, and I tried all drivers from 346 to the most recent driver and firmware available. The problem persist.
I can't participate in any races. I am extremely disappointed
Yes, the solution is to update to driver 373 and update the base, P Hub and BME firmwares.
If you then still get Freezes then it's most likely a hardware defect and you need to contact the support.
I was up to date with all of the drivers and firmware, before this problem started occurring last week. I went back to driver 346 and firmware 2, and then worked my way up one version at a time. I am back where I started with driver 373 and firmware 3.
Then it’s a hardware defect.
I have the same issue with my CSL Elite PS4 right now, its exactly like your issue. Have you found a fix for it?
Friends,
1. Can those who have had problems with freezing rims update us as they are today? Did you get a definitive solution? Those who had tried some alternatives with the pins and downgrade, the problem is gone? Are you already on driver 400 without the same problems or is there still an indication to return to 346?
Maurice and Marcell,
- My DD1 + Formula V2 set is constantly freezing where the FFB is lost and the buttons are locked. Intermittently. I recently had Driver 372 installed and had a hardware problem. I sent it for repair to the US Fanatec and started using a V2 base and started updating the Beta drivers until version 399. When the DD1 returned from RMA, I assembled it and in the first hours I started to have the problem. I downgraded to the previous one and updated the QR and did the updates again until I reached the current 400 driver. The problem still occurs.
I have three steering wheels at home (two V2s - one with padlle - and one BMW GT2) and the same problem occurs with everyone. And only in DD1, base V2 normally works with any of the three steering wheels.
I did tests isolating the power connection of the DD1 and placing it directly connected to several USB (I have already changed the cables). The only thing that was different between the DD1 repair time, was the addition of two more arduinos (One Dash and one Led RPM). Running at the same time I have a JRT (Joel Real Time) and SimHub controlling 3 arduino and 3 Shakers).
I've done several tests and the freezing problem still occurs (there is no exact frequency - there are days that I run 3 hours and days that I run 15 minutes to give the problem. But every day it occurs).
Please help me with any indication of solution.
Thankful.
Regards,
Alexandre Resende
+1 on this problem. Just happened to me in race.