DD1 Cuts out problem, need help.
I'm having the problem which I guess is unfortunately all too common. Around turns, the FFB dies, the wheel gets real loose, and the paddles don't work, then it comes back slowly. It is happening more and more. I've read tons on Fanatec forums this is happening a lot and there doesn't seem to be a common fix or what the actual problem is. This is happening with the DD1 and the Mclaren V2 wheel. There is a lot of chat about the problem being with the simplified QR on the V2 and that I need to get the metal QR. I ordered one, but I'm seeing this same problem happening to people who have the actual podium wheels as well. I've seen possible fixes as using a set screw (I don't have the metal QR yet so I can't try) WD-40 on pins, changing power settings in device manager for the USB on MOBO (tried that, didn't work) firmware downgrades etc.
I opened a ticket with Fanatec, but haven't heard back, from what i've read, they don't have a solution. I have usb 3.0 gen 1 and 2 and it's plugged into gen 2, should I try gen 1? Or is that going to do nothing. I took the torque key out and it seems to be happening more, but that could be coincidence.
I have turned the FFB settings down and it still happens. I don't know how to proceed and it looks like this is an issue that just kind of drags on with no answer and is really bothersome when you spend all the money to go DD and add on the wheels and you wind up not being able to use your high end rig.
Comments
I doubt if this happens to so much users as you are claiming... I have never read such issues on these forums. I read that the “high torque” message comes up and users need to press the button but not that is disappears and slowly comes back.
But above doesn’t solve your problem so some suggestions.
Do you know someone who you can borrow a wheel from to test if it’s in the wheel or base? I personally have my doubts about using a McLaren V2 with the plastic QR on a DD1 but Fanatec doesn’t share that opinion ;-). If you can’t borrow a wheel from someone else I would detach the wheel and check the connector to see if everything is tightened properly.
Oh and wheelbases seem to function best on USB2 ports, not USB3 ports. Also don’t connect them to a pc via a passive usb hub.
I don't know anyone I can borrow a wheel from. I hope the problem will resolve after I receive the CSQR adapter. My PC is new and all usb ports are 3.0 except the one on the front of the case is 2.0 but I've read of issues connecting to the front ports of case, doesn't seem to work well compared to mobo ports. I'm not using a hub.
Mine disconnects all the time. ffb just goes all in one direction and I lose complete control of the car. has lost me many races.
Im on the newest drivers too.
Exactly the same on my CSW V2.5 with the F1 rim with metal QR. Because it's happining also on aa DD1 I'm more and more convinced it's a Fanatec software / Driver, Windows 10 update or USB connection type of issue, rather than a hardware one. It also seems to be something of the last 4 months, if you look at the topics that are being opened.
Fanatec is the one who has to investigate this. I made a service request with all the info I have. Below is a small clip of someone which is exactly the issue I'm experiencing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVXNg60vGxY&
I started having this issue on my 1 month old DD1 last night. The FFB just stops and the wheel gets very loose, causing a crash within a second or so. Turning off the DD1 and turning back on restored the FFB, but it happened again about an hour later.
I did notice something similar happening a couple of times last week where it would lose FFB for a very brief 1/4 second and then come back.
This is my third DD1, and I’m starting to really question now much longer I want to deal with these issues. My first DD1 got repaired after about a year, my second DD1 had to be replaced after 1 week of use, and this third one is the one that replaced the second one. Really?
Edit: doesn’t appear Twitch Clips links work, but here they are just in case.
Here’s the first time last night;
And the second:
It’s happening to me too. I’m using a cs v2.5. The ffb cuts out for a second or two ten slowly builds up again. I have tried reducing the ffb strength but it does not seem to resolve the issue.
Just recently my DD1 has started doing this issue. For about half a second or 1 second I loose FFB and signal from the base so my car in game is no longer getting any steering input from my wheel.
It happens about once or twice every 2 to 3 hours.
I think that there are other reasons that this is happening other than software issues. I've recently been dealing with it over the past year or so of owning my DD1 F1 PS wheel. At first it wasn't happening but as soon as I started messing with FFB settings in game and in the wheel then it reared its ugly head. I initially started using GT7 but then switch to ACC and it happened mostly in ACC.
What worked for me is making sure the HUD shows speed and gear and keep an eye on FFB and note around corners when it goes into the red. The longer it stays there the sooner it will cut FFB. from there just adjust settings so that you will minimized clipping when going around corners. You can feel it in the wheel when it pushes back against your turn and correlate that to the clipping. Once you turn that down the cutout should no longer happen. Of course you still have to dial in the proper feeling for your driving so it will take some balance between in game and Podium settings for FFB but man life has been so much easier for me now that I'm not getting distracted with the "Torque disabled by power button" error message.
Hope this helps.