Simple way to give the new CSL brake pedal more resistance when used on a frame

SteveSteve Member
edited March 2022 in Pedals

I've posted these methods previously but they were in other older topics so migth be easily missed now, but I think anyone who feels the normal brake resistance is a little soft or is considering the load cell kit might want to try these options. I did own the load cell kit, but found it was too hard to press or use comfortably even with an aluminium frame set up and so tried to figure out ways to adjust the standard CSL pedal resistance when bolted to a fixed frame.

Main method to make it stiffer is to fill up the hole in the brake foam. Easiest thing to use is couple of M8 bolts, but a tidier option is to fill the hole with a nylon plastic spacer. Something around 15mm wide x 15mm diameter (I used a 16mm diameter but it was a bit of a squeeze to push it in). They're pretty cheap on ebay. You'll probably want to remove the foam from the brake first to push them in, just tilt the foam sideways a bit and it'll pop out.

Second thing is optional but I prefer to fill in the slack/space between the foam and the back of the metal pedal arm (there's usually a 2-3mm gap), this will also add a little bit more stiffness to the brake feel as well. I used some thin plastic but thick folded card will also work as long as its wedged in tightly.

Finally an option for the accelerator is to use a tie wrap to dampen the contact sound so it has a slightly nicer 'thud' sound when fully down.

If you find the stiffer brake too hard to press down as much afterwards - it shouldn't be a problem, as even though the standard brake doesn't currently have the load cell's brake force option setting, it does dynamically calibrate something similar (using distance instead of force) all the time as you use it, so it never needs to be physically pressed fully down to get 100% brake value if you don't want to.

The maximum physical brake travel length (however large or small) registered by the wheel base automatically becomes the maximum braking value - for as long as the wheel base is turned on. However, in a moment of brain fade - if you just once slam on the brakes unusually hard - that brake length becomes the new max brake limit, which will mean you have to brake slightly harder on average for all the other corners until you restart the wheel base again to reset the brake length calibration.

I don't recommend doing these mods if you use the pedals loose on the floor as they will probably be too stiff, but to me they are worthwhile, (and more enjoyable to drive with), if you use the standard new CSL pedals bolted to a fixed frame.


  • SteveSteve Member
    edited March 2022

    Just a little revision regarding the nylon spacer diameter that fits into the brake pedal foam:

    I started with a spacer of around 17mm diameter (for an M8 size bolt) which I thought was a bit large and hard to squeeze in the rubber foam hole, but after trying a smaller 15mm diameter spacer, I think the original larger spacer of around 17mm diameter is the better size - resulting in hardly any creasing or bending of the foam around the edges of the hole when brake pressure is applied (which might also prolong the foam's long term durability in that area). The width of the spacer still has to be 15mm however, as this is the width of the rubber foam it slots into. (Image also updated)

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