Clonk, click in base csl dd 8nm base

Hello, I have a crazy tap in the feedback or in the base while steering when turning to the right. This only happens when I brake into a corner and then turn in. It's a light tap/clap that I've never had before. I also installed the latest update and the problem is not resolved

little spike thiking


  • Michael RungeMichael Runge Member
    edited May 2023

    I too have noticed probably what you are describing. Sounds like something metal hitting another metal object right?

    Not so sure it's just a right hand turn that I'm noticing it either. It act's like something inside slips then slaps against what it needs to. This is only during FF moments and never on smoother straights or light and slow corners. Seems to do it more when hard into a corner at a decent speed and not all the time just very random.

    My fiancee sure heard it in the bedroom because she hollars down the hall is that you? So it's not exactly quiet at all.

    CSL GT DD 8nm base here. Also just noticed since I picked up ACC after a long time of not driving in it. Didn't notice it previously in AC ripping the Rolex in a LMP car for countless laps.

    I should also probably add that I have a metal QR on the wheel I'm currently using. So this isn't the same issue others have posted about with the QR1 it's a completely different sound.

  • Are you using the retaining bolt? The collar on my QR1 knocked on the bolt, especially when going over rumble strips.

  • The way QR1 is designed, it has a lot of tolerance with respect to the hub on which it is inserted. There is a rubber sheath inside the QR1, which offers grip and prevents slipping. However, if you look at a photograph of the old Wheelbase CSW 2.5, you will notice that there was an additional rubber sheath in the hub, which produced additional grip. Then 2 rubber rings, one front and one rear, which held the two pieces in place and prevented metal-to-metal contact. This additional rubber boot is not present on the CSL DD and DD Pro, and this produces movement between the two parts and metal-on-metal noise.

    You can reduce the noise by using the block screw included in the package, or by inserting one or more strips of transparent tape inside the QR1, in the space between 2 neighboring spheres.

    A small amount of stringy grease, such as vaseline, on the balls can help.

  • Not sure it applies to your situation but I fixed all my 'issues' with the metal QR1 applying a simple cable tie under the retaining bolt head.

    Before I had to check and tighten the bolt even after a 20 minutes I don't have all...well, just when I swap wheels...but it doesn't happen very often.

    I'm basically playing GT7 with VR2 and the DD Pro wheel or ACC with the Formula V2.5x wheel.

    If you search online you can find a picture of what I mean, I'm at work now so I can't do that myself.

    You can try anyway, place the cable tie, close it around the retaining bolt (just under the bolt head, place the bolt in position and apply a decent amout of force to tighten it.


  • Here you are...

    My cable tie is not 'loose' like the picture, I've pulled it all the way until it wraps the bolt 'body'.

    Try it, it's a 10 seconds work, completely harmless.

  • Mike VeldMike Veld Member
    edited May 2023

    I dont have rust bolt, only a plastic one black…

    update: i found hem, my cable tie plops in, i Need a m8 washer, tommorow go to the shop. I hope it works but its a very shitty solution for a product off 1000 euros….

  • You don't have to use an M8 metal washer. It's the conical part of the screw that does the work. The screw head must not touch the QR. You just have to screw, tighten and it will work.

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