CSL DD weak feedback and steering resistance
So I just got my Fanatec CSL DD and safe to say it’s either not working or it’s not what it makes out to be. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions. (This post is long because I'm trying to be as detailed as possible - not because I'm overreacting or panicking, so please refrain from generic responses that seek to only downplay other peoples problems instead of providing helpful solutions, there's plenty of grass outside to touch for forum bullies ;) )
Playing Asetto Corsa and f1, at full range of different settings for FFB which includes a combination of varying the Fanatec driver settings and in game settings, along with suggestions from reading dozens of forums. To note before I describe my issues, I have probably couple decades of using wheels and knowing the intricacies of FFB settings and have probably read and researched 100s of forum posts, websites and reviews to try and come to the bottom of this and this post is the last resort.
The force feedback just isn’t there besides at the very top end (large spikes when you collide with something). You can barely feel road effects and kerbs give a very notchy feedback. There is absolutely no resistance in steering, and under load I can turn the wheel with one finger. This is just the 5Nm but the feedback and steering resistance is not even a quarter of what you’ll get from a Logitech wheel. If I had the DD for years and someone gave me a Logitech I would think it’s revolutionary.
I have the t300 and that (when connected to PC) feels like what direct drive is sold to be relative to the DD. The DD performs far worse than T300 when it’s connected to console. The feedback from on track effects, load on the wheel when steering, and much more information fed back to the wheel re traction, etc. I get people will say the the DD is a lot smoother and 5Nm is not that powerful but the experience I’m getting is there’s nothing there.
Initially it was super clunky so I’ve made sure the base side is aligned and clamped properly and the metal QR1 is fit snug (wheel is McLaren v2) and that seemed to have solved that problem but the rumble effect is still notchy. Drivers / firmware have been installed, reinstalled multiple times. You’d think for the price paid and months of waiting time it’d come ready to use without faffing about for a whole day without any progress - even for someone with a lifetime experience of playing with FFB settings.
I’ll try post a video later
Comments
To elaborate on the clunking
I had major clunking which felt like it was going to break the QR apart when I first used the set up, which was semi resolved after I took the clamp off and realigned the base side stem, and then helped a bit more when I put the screw on - problem is i shouldn’t Need the screw for it to work and it still feels notchy over rumble strips. Hence I think something might be wrong there, maybe over tightened, slightly misaligned which can be readily resolved, unless it’s something slightly off in terms of manufacturing quality.
As for the metallic noise, it is unfortunately normal. Generally this type of metal couplings should be slightly conical, otherwise even the smallest tolerance produces noise. Or use elastic elements. QR1 was designed to fit onto a hub that has a seal, which in the CSL DD was removed, probably to save money. Use some Teflon tape, and you won't need the screw anymore. Three complete turns, then after a few days add 2 more turns on top.
I don't know about F1, but for Assetto Corsa you have to enable Gamma and set it between 0.5 and 0.7. If you have Content Manager you set it from there, otherwise you will have to edit the configuration file from the Windows documents folder. Otherwise the FFB is decidedly hollow and not very full-bodied at low volumes.
Thank you mate! I will try content manager and the take solution.
the reviews on YouTube do without any doubt make it seem like it’s a noticeable difference and better than belt or gear driven solutions, so to hear now that it’s just acceptable that it’s 10x worse in providing the low torque detail and fidelity is a bizarre plot twist - and the fact it’s more notchy than a logitech!
I have no idea if i can help you, but I can tell you from my experience of going from the G920 to the GT DD PRO 8nm I had a similar experience. I just can't say if it is what you are experiencing. But for me i was pretty worried going from a mechanical base like the 920 to the magnetic base. The "smooth" feeling was originally really odd to me. I spent a couple of weeks reading up on settings and playing around with it. I was always able to overpower the base and I didn't expect that. However overpowering a gear base had this horrible destructive noise and feeling that I learned to never do it. Where on the DD overpowering wasn't breaking anything. I would assume a belt drive would be similar. I ended up getting used to it and loving it. Finally selling it to get DD1. That experience is also similar, though it has the ability to overpower me. But you find out quickly that you don't want that much torque. However more torque means less clipping and more room to dial it in where you want.
As for the Clunking? QR1 is horrible. No matter what I did i have always at the very least been able to hear the spring rattle around inside of it. It was on my DD Pro and my DD1 and if its the same thing you're talking about it was there until i upgraded to QR2. Sadly QR2 is not built into the prices of the steering wheels yet so it adds cost to every wheel.
For the clunking it’s a sort of harsh clunking you’d think was bad if it happened on a Logitech so I don’t think I should be getting that at all. I will try that rape solution maybe that helps but it fits snug with the metal QR.
and I get the smooth feeling. Only it’s just smooth with no feedback which I would think is not what we should be getting for a DD. Like we should be getting more detail on the lower end torque stuff like road textures, steering resistance, traction, load on tyres, all which are 10x more superior on the Logitech g27 wheel let alone the new ones. So which has me thinking something is not aligning well. I have attached a photo in the post of the pins on my wheel. One is slightly smaller than the rest, is that normal?
The pin is normal, The clunk is normal. :( It was there for me always up until QR2 upgrade. If you keep the base. Converting early is not a bad idea.
I would suggest you give it some time to get used to and search for settings for the games you're playing. I have always been able to get good feedback. And I have found it very important to get them right on every new game ever since I went DD. Logitech has always been an ez plug and play. I never did use 5nm though. I don't think i'd suggest upgrading to 8nm before you dig through settings and give it some time.
If you search around for complaints about going from NONDD to DD you'll find a common suggestion is not to try to make it feel like your last base. It is absolutely different. Hopefully you do not have a defective base. Its just so hard to describe, what you should "feel" :o
But you should be able to feel the road texture etc just fine.
I can only comment on the pin, but thats totally normal. Its a safety feature - so all the pins are connected before the power is
Yeah I’ll have to keep pushing wit the settings. If my suspicions are correct and my system is a bit weak then will have to resort to a T-GT II. Used my mates one and the performance was mind blowing on PC ACC and felt like a £600 device unlike this.
Although the T-GT has the torque and very amazing fidelity in low torque feedback, i just expected a step up in technology in fidelity with direct drive, regardless of the torque value. I.e the detail you get in great accuracy in the servo base wheel should feel a lot of accurate, clear, and real time than a belt driven wheel as opposed to not being there at all - if this makes any sense
I’ve tried this mate. Still no luck
I’ve got a short clip here. First part just trying to show how bad the feedback is as you’re picking up speed and how little to no resistance in steering the wheel as you speed up. You can’t see it but i am using my index finger in the top grip hole or whatever, with my finger pointing forward and the right edge of my finger is in contact with the inside edge of the grip I am able to move the wheel in any direction. So essentially without even needed to push the wheel up with the top of my finger or down with the bottom I can freely move the wheel with no effort when at load. If I did that with my Thrustmaster the feed back from the road with smash in to my finger.
Then I move the car on to the edge of the track and off track so you can hear that noise that doesn’t sound healthy.
[video of feedback and clunky noise](https://streamable.com/znjql0)
I’ve got a short clip here. First part just trying to show how bad the feedback is as you’re picking up speed and how little to no resistance in steering the wheel as you speed up. You can’t see it but i am using my index finger in the top grip hole or whatever, with my finger pointing forward and the right edge of my finger is in contact with the inside edge of the grip I am able to move the wheel in any direction. So essentially without even needed to push the wheel up with the top of my finger or down with the bottom I can freely move the wheel with no effort when at load. If I did that with my Thrustmaster the feed back from the road with smash in to my finger.
Then I move the car on to the edge of the track and off track so you can hear that noise that doesn’t sound healthy.
[video of feedback and clunky noise](https://streamable.com/znjql0)
To all those I sent the video link, the close bracket at the end is failing the link
https://streamable.com/znjql0
:o um. yeah. I have never heard that. ever. somethings very wrong. include that video with your ticket.
I have found the culprit! Took the shaft out to see if there was any issues with that and the The usb c port on the shaft was damaged!
I’ll close this thread since I contacted support
thank you everyone for your input!
Of course! and have a speedy RMA!