Don't get me wrong, James. I'm one of the first to criticize Fanatec over the years for poor build quaility, quality way below what it should be in a product at such a price level. Not to mention now the nightmare everyone is dealing with the software issues. But that is not all Fanatec's issue. Definitely a few players jumped the gun before perfecting their products before releasing them. Anyway, I know you are disappointed about the timing of the V2 vs V3. But, back to my original analogy, in the car industry, or any industry for that matter. The manufacturers are always working on new and improved. Electornics is nortorious for that. Yeah, it sux and I sympathise with you. Maybe as suggested above, return the product for refund, as being unsuitable. Not sure that will work out for you, but couldn't hurt to try. Best of luck.
What are you talking about? I never complained about Fanatec's build quality. I waited for the Fanatec gear to be announced and available _because_ of the build quality. I have no need for the cheap plastic garbage MS partnered with at launch.
I also never said anything about "v2 vs v3". I can only assume you're talking about the pedal set, because the wheel base is up to v2. I have not bought any v2 or v3 pedals. I intend to use my CSR-E pedals for some time yet.
My gripe concerns the topic of the thread - the Xbox One Universal Hub. Way back on 2014-09-12 I received an email from Fanatec that started:
As an owner of the ClubSport or CSR Elite wheel, you have the privilege to be in the exclusive group eligible to purchase our new Fanatec ClubSport Wheel V2.
The community is super excited about this wheel, and not only will you be among the first to get your hands on this revolutionary racing wheel base, you will also benefit from a big, pre-order discount!
Nobody else can purchase this product at the moment, as you need an invite code to put this product in your shopping cart. These invite codes will be sent by a separate e-mail. We will also automatically put the code into your customer profile.
Thus, it is disappointing to me that the same sort of email wasn't sent to announce the availability of the hub to match the wheel base that has been sitting in an unopened box since December 2014.
If an email had been sent, it is very likely I would be participating in discussions about how I'm enjoying my wheel hub instead of merely reading them. And I wouldn't be getting frustrated still having to use a controller when the product I need is half delivered but fully available (and in others's hands).
James, the reading comprehension on this blog is deplorable. Expect a lot more of people accusing you of things you never said.
I see you are back at it, DH. Couldn't resist. Could you? I made a mistake and acknowledged that to the person to whom I was talking. I didn't accuse anyone of any thing (reading comprehension?). I was following up on a post from another thread but got crossed up. Keep you nose out of my business, AH.
You really do have trouble following along, don't you? Funny advice from a guy who already stuck his nose into a conversation that had nothing to do with him. DF
Thomas, any word on why the Clubsport shifter is only working in sequential mode on XO?
EDIT: I figured it out. If the shifter is plugged into shifter port 2 it is only recognised as a sequential shifter by the XO, but works just fine on the Master Race. I plugged it into shifter port 1 and all is fine on the XO. Maybe this can be fixed next FW update?
I connected static shifter paddles into shifter port 2 of CSWBv2 with universal hub for Xbox One. From PC game controller property window, static shifter paddles seems to work fine (paddles as correctly recognized as LT, RT). However, on Forza Motorsport 5 these paddles doesn't work.
After update it says CAL...first press little black button on top of box. S-1 shows up, turn wheel to centre and press menu+A button. Restart wheel..if it centre's, your done.
After update it says CAL...first press little black button on top of box. S-1 shows up, turn wheel to centre and press menu+A button. Restart wheel..if it centre's, your done.
Why use the static shifter paddles while the shiffter paddles come with the hub..no problems that way!!
When drifting, shifter paddles which rotates along with steering is problem. I can't understand which paddle is shift down or shift up when steering is rotating over than 180 degress.
Static shifter paddles and hub shifter paddles are different in advantage. I know hub shifter paddles works good, but it can't be subtitution of static shifter paddles.
Hmm, that means I need to reconnect H-pattern shifter or static shifter paddles to shifter port 1 of CSWBv2 when I want to change whether I use H-pattern or static paddles?
Usability of both port 1(H-pattern) and port2 (static paddles) without reconnecting is better. I want to implement this feature for next FW.
Forza5: all is working now, also have my H-shifter working...finally got the proper cable sent by Fanatec. Force Feedback is working properly (in 'normal' steering mode -> assists settings), even felt the torque of a Front Wheel Drive car when accelerating...
Project Cars: Still rubbish, I cannot feel the grip of the tires, not able to recover from the rear of the car stepping out (always the dreaded tank slapper of death), the wheel doesn't feel lighter when the rear is losing grip, get occasional rumble going over the curbs, get weird notchy feeling now with the 1.4 patch...is that supposed to resemble uneven surface? When you stop the car on track, it feels as if the front wheels are suddenly glued to the track (almost preventing you from being able to steer). There is no Neutral in the H-shifter. I did try both the 'default' Tire Force and Force Feedback strengths, as well as various other test values (came to 75 Tire Force and 35 Force Feedback strength...but it doesn't seem to change anything in the actual feeling....I do see a nice graph of the force that should be felt in the hud...)
In general Xbox One:
When starting up a game with pressing 'A' on the hub it always asks me again 'who are you?' (even when already signed in by Kinect recognition). Also when you have the suspend mode enabled on the XBox One and wake it up again to continue in Forza 5 you cannot get the hub to be recognized again in the game (the rest of the XBox is perfectly controllable with the hub....just not in the game...a game restart is needed in order to get it working again).
I don't know if this is a Project Cars specific problem or not, but after the 1.4 update I have the screen go in 'sleep'-mode after a certain time....mid-race! When you flick the 'funky'-button the screen will turn normal again.
I do miss the extra settings I had on my CSR wheel...and I miss the handbrake!!
Really wonder if Project Cars is ever going to be fixed....is Fanatec actively working together with Slightly Mad Studios to fix all this in patch 1.5??
Thanks for posting your thoughts so far with the hub. Have you tried (with wheel connected) choosing "Kinect didnt recognize" ? I know that you have to assign/reassign peripherals sometimes when it gets buggy like that. PCars patch 2.0 has mention of some new tweaks and fixes for wheels (some Mad Catz specific) though not sure if this one will get many issues resolved. I'm still holding out hope for SMS to get this game mostly bug free. Waiting for my hub to arrive in Aug is starting to feel not so bad with all these damn issues.
You should look on PCars forum a little more Toon...lol Patch 2.0 is comming next week. Also on PCars forum, ffb fanatec topic somewhere on late 80s...beginning 90s pages, Nissan4ever told me a trick about sign in...but I didn't understand what he meant...maybe you can figure it out Toon!
I just wanted to share that I had the opposite experience. PCars feels amazing, whereas Forza 5 was absolutely horrible. There was no feedback, and massive (house-shaking) amounts of rumble.
We all know that the V2 base is very, very strong, and most of us use it at reduced FF. Here's what I eventually realized.
In PCars, reduce the in-game FF setting, and leave the Hub at 100. In Forza, leave the game FF up, but reduce the FF on the Hub. (I also reduced the Rumble in the FM5 settings to help.)
Now both games feel great! (PCars is still worlds ahead when it comes to FF, in my opinion.)
Thanks Luke for sharing your findings! I'll try your recommendations! It might be good to share settings here that 'work'...It might be a good start for others to tweak their settings on... (I'll share my Forza 5 game and wheel settings later today)
I just wanted to share that I had the opposite experience. PCars feels amazing, whereas Forza 5 was absolutely horrible. There was no feedback, and massive (house-shaking) amounts of rumble.
We all know that the V2 base is very, very strong, and most of us use it at reduced FF. Here's what I eventually realized.
In PCars, reduce the in-game FF setting, and leave the Hub at 100. In Forza, leave the game FF up, but reduce the FF on the Hub. (I also reduced the Rumble in the FM5 settings to help.)
Now both games feel great! (PCars is still worlds ahead when it comes to FF, in my opinion.)
FM5 works really well for me and you should never turn the FFB down on the wheel. Only use the in game FFB settings. If you turn down the FFB strength on the wheel itself you will filter out the more subtle effects.
Ingame: all default, except for; vibration scale: 65 , force feedback scale: 65 on the hub: all default...force feedback on 'auto'
I did notice, just checking this now...first my gas-pedal didn't work...turned the wheel off and on again....gas pedal worked, but force feedback felt odd...retried a few off and on ..no luck. Then shut down the Xbox...and removed power from it...then started my Xbox and started Forza...everything was ok again...
Antoine: yes, probably...I used these settings with the Aston Martin GT3 (r900) car on Spa in Forza 5 and it feels really good
Now last night I tried PCars with the suggested settings (set my wheel Force Feedback on 100)...I used 50 for Tire Force and 15 for Force Feedback in the game. I didn't notice any major changes. I tried it with the Aston Martin GT3 on Spa *for comparison. The strength felt allright...but that's about it.
Luke: are you actually feeling the tire-grip and the wheel feeling lighter when the rear of the car breaks grip??...I really wonder what settings Project Cars you guys use to feel that...(you are on the XBox...right?!)
Then I tried 2 different cars in Project Cars, the Porche road version and the normal Caterham...I could almost not feel any strength in Force Feedback....this would mean I either need to adjust the general Tire Force and Force Feeback in the game for each different car I drive, or adjust each car's setting on each track...not something I would be willing to waste my time on....
Toon, reset your wheel settings, controls tab, by pressing 'Y'. Redo button mapping, I took a picture before reset to know my settings. CREATE A NEW WHEEL PROFILE FOR PCARS on the rim, display S-2 or 3 or 4....think not many do that. Let in game ffb on 50 and tire force to 80 All other default. Wheel sens auto, ffb also to 100, sho 100 and rest default. If you think, like me the radius is to big, do wheel calibration too. Full wheel turn okay, but at 90° turn, just turn your wheel 45° and press A button...you'll be amazed. FM5 feel mate.
Luke: are you actually feeling the tire-grip and the wheel feeling lighter when the rear of the car breaks grip??...I really wonder what settings Project Cars you guys use to feel that...(you are on the XBox...right?!)
That is correct. I am on Xbox, and the default FF settings are the best I have felt in any game (after I dropped the in game FF to 60, I think). I feel every curb, bump, collision, loss of grip, puddle... everything. I had to turn down the FF because both the wheel and game at 100 could seriously hurt someone, especially with the now fixed glitches causing the wheel to turn full lock as hard as it can.
Actually, I'm no longer sure how I lowered the FF, whether on the wheel or in game. I'll check tonight.
Thanks Antoine. I do have PCars at 50 FF, with the wheel at 100.
I tried Forza 5 at 100 and 100, and it was far too strong. I dropped in game FF to 50, and it was a horribly numb experience, with a rumble that shook my whole complex. Seriously, it knocked my speakers off my desk every 15 seconds. So I tried in game FF at 100, rumble at 20, and FF on the HUB at 50. It is wonderful now. I can actually feel the car.
Try in game ffb at 65, rumble at 60 and wheel 100. It's always better to have the wheel output do maximum of in game input...Not to squeeze fulli nput down with wheel !!!
Hub is Now ordered!!! I cancelled my first order i saw the GT Rim is back!!! Thats the Rim i wanted so i ordered that and Cancelled the Flat Rim... Practice Practice Practic!!! The day i get My Hub will be Day 1 of a Hostile Leader board take over.... Aaah ha ha haaa.
Antoine Goosens you were Right... Im back at the FFB!!! Im using 50% FFB on PS4 with a Few Adjustments to Relative adjust bleed and im already -1 full second on my Fastes times. LOL... I dunno how i have any fun racing im too busey Tweeking. LOL
Comments
EDIT: I figured it out. If the shifter is plugged into shifter port 2 it is only recognised as a sequential shifter by the XO, but works just fine on the Master Race. I plugged it into shifter port 1 and all is fine on the XO. Maybe this can be fixed next FW update?
From PC game controller property window, static shifter paddles seems to work fine (paddles as correctly recognized as LT, RT).
However, on Forza Motorsport 5 these paddles doesn't work.
Thomas, can it be fixed next FW update?
New Member
Questions:
After updating everything, wheel is still not centered...hit the menu + A nothing happens
While sitting here reading, I get a vibration that comes and goes all through the rig
HELP please
thanks
Static shifter paddles and hub shifter paddles are different in advantage. I know hub shifter paddles works good, but it can't be subtitution of static shifter paddles.
Usability of both port 1(H-pattern) and port2 (static paddles) without reconnecting is better. I want to implement this feature for next FW.
Thanks for posting your thoughts so far with the hub. Have you tried (with wheel connected) choosing "Kinect didnt recognize" ? I know that you have to assign/reassign peripherals sometimes when it gets buggy like that.
PCars patch 2.0 has mention of some new tweaks and fixes for wheels (some Mad Catz specific) though not sure if this one will get many issues resolved. I'm still holding out hope for SMS to get this game mostly bug free. Waiting for my hub to arrive in Aug is starting to feel not so bad with all these damn issues.
Have you tried Horizon 2? How is it?
Patch 2.0 is comming next week.
Also on PCars forum, ffb fanatec topic somewhere on late 80s...beginning 90s pages, Nissan4ever told me a trick about sign in...but I didn't understand what he meant...maybe you can figure it out Toon!
I just wanted to share that I had the opposite experience. PCars feels amazing, whereas Forza 5 was absolutely horrible. There was no feedback, and massive (house-shaking) amounts of rumble.
We all know that the V2 base is very, very strong, and most of us use it at reduced FF. Here's what I eventually realized.
In PCars, reduce the in-game FF setting, and leave the Hub at 100. In Forza, leave the game FF up, but reduce the FF on the Hub. (I also reduced the Rumble in the FM5 settings to help.)
Now both games feel great! (PCars is still worlds ahead when it comes to FF, in my opinion.)
Ingame: all default, except for; vibration scale: 65 , force feedback scale: 65
on the hub: all default...force feedback on 'auto'
I did notice, just checking this now...first my gas-pedal didn't work...turned the wheel off and on again....gas pedal worked, but force feedback felt odd...retried a few off and on ..no luck. Then shut down the Xbox...and removed power from it...then started my Xbox and started Forza...everything was ok again...
If you think, like me the radius is to big, do wheel calibration too. Full wheel turn okay, but at 90° turn, just turn your wheel 45° and press A button...you'll be amazed. FM5 feel mate.
That is correct. I am on Xbox, and the default FF settings are the best I have felt in any game (after I dropped the in game FF to 60, I think). I feel every curb, bump, collision, loss of grip, puddle... everything. I had to turn down the FF because both the wheel and game at 100 could seriously hurt someone, especially with the now fixed glitches causing the wheel to turn full lock as hard as it can.
Actually, I'm no longer sure how I lowered the FF, whether on the wheel or in game. I'll check tonight.
Thanks Antoine. I do have PCars at 50 FF, with the wheel at 100.
I tried Forza 5 at 100 and 100, and it was far too strong. I dropped in game FF to 50, and it was a horribly numb experience, with a rumble that shook my whole complex. Seriously, it knocked my speakers off my desk every 15 seconds. So I tried in game FF at 100, rumble at 20, and FF on the HUB at 50. It is wonderful now. I can actually feel the car.