With PCars on XOne you mean huh ? I'll walk you trough them, via chat, as soon as I see you online Joseph!!! Just don't update to patch 3.0 yet IF/WHEN it's available. I want you to feel and judge them at current conditions. After that, and the use of Grimeys pdf to know what slider does what, you'll be able to create your own desired settings!!
I got my pcars settings perfect. Forza is just way too much ffb and vibrations. Feels like my wheel is shaking apart.
@Joseph. Re Forza 5 on Xbone: My parts aren't all here yet. I have the Universal Hub for Xbone, The CSW V2 base and the GT rim. I still use the CSR Elite pedals, as the V3 won't be here until end of August.
I have not loaded any of the beta FW, still on 205-094 firmware.
Aside from the settings listed below, I race with all assists OFF. I set to Manual with Clutch, paddle shifters. So, some of the settings do not apply.
In order to quell the harsh jerking and overly stiff FF, I set my hub and in-game settings as follows:
Hub
SEN-200
FF-70
SHO-50
ABS-100
LIN-30
DEAD-off
DRI-off
Xbone Console game settings:
Steering axis dead zone inside-0
Steering axis dead zone outside-100
Acceleration axis dead zone inside-5
Acceleration axis dead zone outside-100
Deceleration axis dead zone inside-5
Deceleration axis dead zone outside-100
Clutch axis dead zone inside-10
Clutch axis dead zone outside-100
Hand break dead zone outside-10 (I don't use hand break)
Hand break dead zone outside-100
Vibration scale-50
FF-100
Wheel rotation angle-200
I find these settings are "comfortable" for long tuning and test sessions. And no hack saw action while at the start line, off-track excursions are manageable with not too much jolting. Just enough to remind you of your mistake.
If you try these setting, I'd like to hear your feedback.
Of course, all this could change when I get the V3 pedals and update to the latest firmware.
@Joseph. Re Forza 5 on Xbone: My parts aren't all here yet. I have the Universal Hub for Xbone, The CSW V2 base and the GT rim. I still use the CSR Elite pedals, as the V3 won't be here until end of August.
I have not loaded any of the beta FW, still on 205-094 firmware.
Aside from the settings listed below, I race with all assists OFF. I set to Manual with Clutch, paddle shifters. So, some of the settings do not apply.
In order to quell the harsh jerking and overly stiff FF, I set my hub and in-game settings as follows:
Hub
SEN-200
FF-70
SHO-50
ABS-100
LIN-30
DEAD-off
DRI-off
Xbone Console game settings:
Steering axis dead zone inside-0
Steering axis dead zone outside-100
Acceleration axis dead zone inside-5
Acceleration axis dead zone outside-100
Deceleration axis dead zone inside-5
Deceleration axis dead zone outside-100
Clutch axis dead zone inside-10
Clutch axis dead zone outside-100
Hand break dead zone outside-10 (I don't use hand break)
Hand break dead zone outside-100
Vibration scale-50
FF-100
Wheel rotation angle-200
I find these settings are "comfortable" for long tuning and test sessions. And no hack saw action while at the start line, off-track excursions are manageable with not too much jolting. Just enough to remind you of your mistake.
If you try these setting, I'd like to hear your feedback.
Of course, all this could change when I get the V3 pedals and update to the latest firmware.
Cheers!
Thanks Trevor. I'll definitely give it a go today and let you know. Cheers man.
Has anyone experienced the problem in FH2 with V3 break petal applying by itslf?
The Brake does that in PS4 PCars also... ive heard a few people with that issue... doesnt seem hardware related its probly the FW needs tweeking... Brake pedal may be too sensitive or a auto calibration glitch going on... im sure that it will get patched dont panic. put in 2 or 3% dead zone or restart your wheel when it plays up.
Via the Funky switch up,down,left or right Joseph. I know, it sucks!!!! On PS4 I've got my keyboard attached and next to me to have ALL buttons mapped...it's FREAKIN time M$ did the same!!! Cause if FM6 sucks to my liking...I'm changing team and will not buy any racegame on XOne ever again!!! Until M$ gets smarter and give us back our GAME console in stead of souped up media player.
hey there i have a isseus whit calibrating the wheel. its just pointing to the left like its not finishing i read that you have to do the thing from the manual but i dont have a athor rim then this one how does the calibrating works on the universal xobox one hub ??
hey there i have a isseus whit calibrating the wheel. its just pointing to the left like its not finishing i read that you have to do the thing from the manual but i dont have a athor rim then this one how does the calibrating works on the universal xobox one hub ??
Press the Tuning menu button on the hub. Then Hold Start = + A and center your wheel. Then exit tuning menu.
hey there i have a isseus whit calibrating the wheel. its just pointing to the left like its not finishing i read that you have to do the thing from the manual but i dont have a athor rim then this one how does the calibrating works on the universal xobox one hub ??
Press the Tuning menu button on the hub. Then Hold Start = + A and center your wheel. Then exit tuning menu.
jeeeejj thank you dit not find it anywhere your my hero
Buttons work fine with xbox one in forza 5 but can't get the pedals to work. i have v3 pedals, anyone know what I'm doing wrong
You'd have to describe what you're doing in order for us to judge what might be going wrong
I have the same problem. My V2 base and Xbone hub are in for repair. I hooked up my CSR-E with the V3 pedals. I tried to flash the CSR-E with the latest firmware (757) from the download page, but the flash stalls half way through, goes "unresponsive". So, I try the CSR-E just as it is (original firmware), with the V3 pedals and no activity at all from the pedals. They work in the pedal flash mode, with the pedals connected directly to the PC by USB, but not when connected to the base with the RJ12. For what it's worth, I had previously flashed the V3's with the latest firmware posted by Armin, the v15.zip file.
I tried flashing the wheel with the latest 757 firmware on 3 different PC's. All are Windows 10. All freeze half way through.
I downloaded the 226 Driver from the CSR-E page, But, it does not recognize the wheel, even with the original firmware.
I also connected the old pedals CSR-E, now even they don't work.
I did a quick search, "Fanatec Wheel Firmware Updater v2.3 (Not Responding)", found comments from other users with this very same issue, but unfortunately none were resolved. Does anyone know of a work around. I opened the updater as Administrator, I tried about 10 different usb ports on the various PC's, I turned off the anti-virus. I rebooted, etc. etc.
I did a quick search, "Fanatec Wheel Firmware Updater v2.3 (Not Responding)", found comments from other users with this very same issue, but unfortunately none were resolved. Does anyone know of a work around. I opened the updater as Administrator, I tried about 10 different usb ports on the various PC's, I turned off the anti-virus. I rebooted, etc. etc.
Yeah. I said that in the first post, 2 posts up, at 8:44. One thing that happens when it freezes; As you know, Windows plays a chime when a USB source is connected. When I put the wheel in bootloader, and the wheel connects, the chime is played. Then when I press the start button in the Updater, the green bar scrolls to halfway, then the chime for disconnect plays, then immediately the chime for connect plays again. It is at that time that the Updater becomes unresponsive. It never completes Flash Phase 1.
I haven't had a chance to try this yet, but I'm going to go into the USB drivers (Device Manager) and turn off the sleep mode for each port.
Yeah. I said that in the first post, 2 posts up, at 8:44. One thing that happens when it freezes; As you know, Windows plays a chime when a USB source is connected. When I put the wheel in bootloader, and the wheel connects, the chime is played. Then when I press the start button in the Updater, the green bar scrolls to halfway, then the chime for disconnect plays, then immediately the chime for connect plays again. It is at that time that the Updater becomes unresponsive. It never completes Flash Phase 1.
I haven't had a chance to try this yet, but I'm going to go into the USB drivers (Device Manager) and turn off the sleep mode for each port.
After that, I don't have a clue what to do.
Please report back whether disabling USB power save helped or not.
If possible, try and find a Win7 PC or laptop on which you could try the FW update. On my Win7 and Vista PCs it has always worked with zero issues.
No, that didn't work. I'll see if I can borrow a W7 or 8 lap top. Most everyone I know has upgraded to W10. I have a friend who is computer phobic. He probably did not update. His laptop is W8.1 I'll see if I can borrow his.
Comments
I got my pcars settings perfect. Forza is just way too much ffb and vibrations. Feels like my wheel is shaking apart.
I think I've got ffb at 65 and vibs at 80
Has anyone experienced the problem in FH2 with V3 break petal applying by itslf?
I would like to know how the car is activated cluch Universal Hub for Xbox and CSW v2... thanksIf possible, try and find a Win7 PC or laptop on which you could try the FW update. On my Win7 and Vista PCs it has always worked with zero issues.