Fanatec Beta Driver V361 (now V365) for CSL, CSW and Podium Bases (all wheels)

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  • It depends, at least in my case, what you are using it on. I, at this time, am only running GT Sport, Assetto Corsa and Dirt Rally 2.0 and I am having no issues at all. This is all on the PS4. I am able to update the wheelbase and wheel and everything works great. No knocks, no disconnects mid-race or anything else others are experiencing. But as a lot of people have documented, your mileage may vary.


    V/R

    Keith.

  • If you're running fanalab then try these in game settings

    In Game FFB settings: 

    Gain: 60%

    Minimum Force: 0%

    Dynamic Damping: 0%

    Road Effects: 0%

    Frequency: 333Hz

    Steer Lock: 1070°

    Ster Linearity: 1.00

    Brake Gamma: 1.00

    Gearshift Debouncing: 50ms

  • Yep... That's why I'm still on 345 driver (662/30). Fanalab doesn't work anymore but I don't care... Also Clubsport Universal Hub rotary encoder miss a lot of click since DD launch... but I can race without issue, so it's reliable with 345 driver for me. I don't want to be a beta tester and waste my time, so I'm still waiting for a stable driver that it will never come.

    • Wheel Base Model (product ID): ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5
    • Steering Wheel Model (product ID): F1 Black & Porsche Rim
    • Driver Version: 365
    • Base FW Version: 672
    • Motor FW Version: 22


    Whenever I attach my Porsche Rim it sometimes start to making a high pitch noise. I think it's because of the weight or so. If I remember it wasn't that loud with 347. Sometimes with my F1 Black when turning it makes that noise too. Could it be driver/firmware related or is it a hardware-issue? If I remember correctly too there were some others with the same issue a few drivers before.

  • So what is the latest driver that works with the CSL Elite 1.1 and the Universal hub for Xbox where all the buttons work on PC? would it be v3.47?

    https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/1058/fanatec-beta-driver-v347-for-csl-csw-all-wheels/p1

  • But you said you set Dynamic Damper at 100% so did you change it to 0%?

    I'm also using that same in game setting as well as Fanalab 1.23 on DD1, and I have zero oscillation in ACC.

  • Sorry I have dynamic dampening at 100% but the other settings I have the same.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    Sounds like a hardware issue, I'm not aware of any problems with only one side of the shifters.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    Make sure your TV is set to game mode to reduce visual lag. In general in this combination it will never be perfect as console and TV always have more lag than PC and Monitors. In addition to that F1 games are I think known for having a bit more visual lag than others, often its also more a lag of the steering wheel animation in -game and not really an input lag.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    Do you have a DD and are you using one of the Info screens with graphs?

    What are your FFB settings in the tuning menu?

    Its really hard to help if there is almost no information in reports, in the first post of this discussion is mentioned that you should add informationi about which hardware you are using, which firmware and so on and if its about FFB problems it makes sense to mention the settings as well, otherwise its just guessing what we can do.

  • my DD1 freezes while playing, I sent an email to Fanatec, they told me to downgrade again to 346 from 365. when are you going to release a new update that solves the known issues? thanks in advance.

  • Hi Marcel, yes thats what i am thinking as well. I opened a support ticket and waiting for a response. Hope they can assist asap. Thank you.

  • alright, but how can I know that you released a new update, I found out by mistake that you have the 365 update. please let me know

  • Just have a look in the forums on a regular base :)

  • Hey all I have been having an issue with Fanalab seeing my DD1 and everything plugged into it.

    Wheel base: DD1

    Pedals: V3

    Shifter: 1.5sq

    Rim: Bmw GT2

    Driver: 365

    Motor FW: 38

    Base FW: 672

    Fanalab Ver: 1.24

    Recently I have had an issue with Fanalab not seeing my Gear.

    at first I thought it was a USB controller issue but after much trouble shooting I pulled up the Log file for Fanalab and there is a failer.

    -- FanaLAB START-------------+

                  |    FanaLab V1.24 BETA 12/19/2019  |

                  +----------------------------------------------+

    06/02/2020 17:45:58.460 | ERROR | PCUtilRegistry::GetRegistryValueCurrentUser [int] | Subkey: SOFTWARE\Endor\PodiumSuiteName: ITM | System.NullReferenceException: Object reference not set to an instance of an object.

      at PodiumControl.PCUtilRegistry.GetRegistryValueCurrentUser(String Subkey, String Name, Int32& Value)

    06/02/2020 17:45:59.670 | ERROR | PCUtilRegistry::GetRegistryValueCurrentUser [int] | Subkey: SOFTWARE\Endor\PodiumSuiteName: ITM | System.NullReferenceException: Object reference not set to an instance of an object.

      at PodiumControl.PCUtilRegistry.GetRegistryValueCurrentUser(String Subkey, String Name, Int32& Value)

    06/02/2020 17:48:02.872 | ERROR | PCThreadDeviceWheelMain::PrivateDeviceWheelArrived | m_DeviceCollection.Add() failed!

    06/02/2020 10:48:12.409

    to add to this my PC sees the wheel and as long as I don't open fanalab I can open the wheel properties but if fanalab is open and not seeing my wheel the wheel property page doesnt respond yet the wheel is shown in the controller properties dialog box. I have narrowed it down to fanalab through trial and error\troubleshooting and the only time I see the error is when Fanalab is open/opened. Its a rather frustraiting intermitent issue that has caused me to miss several races. Just as an FYI this issue has the look and apperence of a USB connection issue but isnt that at all, wich is why it took me a while to narrow it down.

    Please Advise as to a fix

    TIA

    Nathen Gonderman

  • BASE podium dd2

    PC driver : 365

    WB FW : 672

    FW motor : 38

    Rim: ClubSport Steering Wheel Classic 2

    Hello,

    almost total button dysfunction


  • edited June 2020

    Please always read the known issues of a beta driver before installing it. This is known as you can read in the first post and will be fixed for the next driver release.

  • edited June 2020

    Hello, Maurice

    Driver V361 yes I had read for the driver v361mes the I made a return on the v365 I had to think wrongly that it is about another drivers, I am sorry for that.

  • I didn't see this in the known isssues.

    ClubSport Shifter SQ 1.5 H-Shifter randomly goes into the wrong gears. ie 1st goes into Revere or 3rd in to 1st. Recalibrated H-Shifter several times. It does this In any game and the wheel properties.

    I am aware of the option to downgrade the base and motor firmware but have chosen not to as I mostly race GT3 with Sequential shifters now days. With the other known issues, I'm assuming it's not hardware problem.


    • Wheel Base Model (product ID): DD2
    • Steering Wheel Model (product ID): UHX
    • Driver Version: 365
    • Base FW Version: 672
    • Motor FW: 38
    • FanaLab Version: 1.23


  • I have the same issue! Honestly thought my shifter was broken.

    Recalibrated the shifter in the DD1 properties, on the wheel base itself and in game and can never fix itself. works some times, others it randomly selects a gear, 4th becomes 2nd, 1st is 3rd and 3rd is reverse. It's really weird, I started using my flappy paddles and figured I had a hardware fault.

    I have had this issue on 356 & 365, yet to test on 346 as I stopped using the shifter.

  • This is a hardware issue with these shifters. Mine does the same. Some have found electrically isolating the hall sensor board with electrical tape helps.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    Make sure to double check with a previous driver if the problem still exists, I'm not aware this being an issue of newer firmware.

    One tip I can give for calibration in general, if you move into a gear, remove your hand from the knob before proceeding to the next step. Then the position is calibrated most precisely. If you hold the knob while proceeding to the next step you force it a little bit to one side which potentially can mix up the calibration.

  • Cliff MCliff M Member
    edited June 2020

    For me the H-Shifter issue and the known issue with some of the UHX buttons not working was first noticed when I originally installed driver 361 and it's firmware package. This problem did not go away when I upgraded to driver 365. I usually calibrate the way you suggested. I may try rolling back to the older base and motor firmware contained in driver 365. thanks

  • WarmRedWarmRed Member
    edited June 2020

    I had exactly the same problem over and over again until I made this like in the Youtube video. After that I never had problems with the shifter again. I think the part about the tape is the solution

  • Cliff MCliff M Member
    edited June 2020

    Gagaryn mentioned the isolating tape on the hall sensor board . I'll give them a try. thanks for the info guys .

  • Brand new CSL Elite + Formula V2 + CSL Pedals working fine till i updated to those drivers to try Fanalab.

    Wheel was like driven by the devil, as i hit curbs it was going to break my desk and 4 tim drivers crashed and my wheel has been disconnected, now i rolled back to v334 downgrading everything except Formula FW and seems, SEEMS it works fine again, but i can't use Fanalabs like this.

  • I believe CSL can only use driver up to v347 so try that and see how it goes.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    hard to tell, because when you update the firmware, you always have to run a new calibration of the shifter and something might have gone wrong there

This discussion has been closed.