Simply switch to PC mode (or detach the Formula v2) and then everything should work again and you can update the motor which is the reason why your fans are at 100%.
you only updated the wheel base firmware, not the motor. Please have a look at the Quick Guide on how to change modes on the Formula v2 wheel. Other workaround to get into PC mode is by simply detach the wheel as said.
Good morning, yesterday I was downgrading the driver 356 since with the last version I was having some problems and while I was updating the firmware of the podium button module endurance an installation error occurred and my buuton module stopped working I have tried several more drivers old and there is no way to bring back to life this dead any idea?
Same thing happened to me while updating the firmware of the BME. You will need the DeviceModuleBootLoader tool to bring it back to working state. Up-/Downgrading the driver will not work. You will need to contact support or need to find it yourself on google.
There is the poc when I shutdown my dd1 with the button at the back of the base.
The intensity of the poc is not always the same, sometime there is no poc at all, it seems to be random, I didn't find a combo of combination that increase or decrease it with always the same intensity.
I had 2 or 3 freezes of the base, I had to disconnect the plug as the back button didn't want to work, after plug again, all back to normal.
All others things are greats, I noticed that to reduce the FEI can smooth some harch effects and makes the feel more natural with some games.
I'm pretty much happy with these drivers as I came from the 346 and it gives a lot of improvement in the feeling.
Did one of these patches remove the old Brake ABS function of vibrating at a certain percentage of brake input? I updated from v336 to this in preparation of going from a Clubsport V2 to a DDR2, and the "BR ABS" setting is missing from the tuning menu. I installed FanaLabs as well, but it doesn't seem like it makes that same function available (specifically in iRacing).
Installed the W10 May update. Pressed Joy.cpl then Fanatec. Took really long finding the wheel. It did freeze. Restarted W10. Now it won't recognize the wheel. Uninstalled and now I am reinstalling. Hope it works. Edit: It's fine now
Aha, so it did. Thanks for pointing it out, I was trying to scan for it across change logs, but apparently I wasn't looking close enough.
EDIT: Actually, it seems like there is one change. Previously, it only vibrated the brake pedal, but now it also seems to vibrate the wheel, which seems counter to the "functionality of the ABS didn't change" statement. Is there a configuration somewhere to make it not vibrate the wheel at the same time?
EDIT2: It seems like, with this driver installed, the BLI will vibrate both the pedals and the wheel unless FanaLabs is up and running. If FanaLabs is running (v1.24 for my test), it does go back to normal (pedals only). This is still on my Clubsport V2, if it matters.
History of the problem (emails from RMA with mr. Phillip):
FIRST MESSAGE:
i have PS4 DD1 bundle with F1 CS Steering wheel (blue one). Around month ago i made a few things in the same time:
- Clear windows install
- Base firmware upgraded to x64 v352 beta
- Hi trq unlocked via safety stick
- Force feedback increased in all configurations
Since then i experience some issues with my steering wheel (just with steering wheel, not with the base or pedals). After switch on, in first around 30 min of usage steering wheel sometimes got freezed. Buttons are not working, screen and led panel is freezed. Force feedback is still working, base is still working and pedals still working with no problem or any sign of short time disconnect or something. To unfreeze a steering wheel i need to restart the base and SW is working again.
As i mentioned before, it happens mostly in first minutes of usage when base is cold. It never happened in long session after warm up. Like base was switched on during whole 24h of Nordschleife in iRacing with 8h of hard racing and everything was fine.
I tried few things arleady:
- I checked the pins inside SW. Doesnt look like they are bend, loose or broken.
- I ckecked and reattached all cables, including usb, power cord and data cables
- I disabled selective usb power cutout on windows
- I tried Diffrent USB 3.0 and 2.0 Ports
- I reverted firmware to x64 v346
Nothing above eliminated the problem. Maybe after switching to USB 2.0 problem is less frequent but it could be just a coincidence, there is much higher ambient temperature now. Since yesterday im trying to reproduce the problem to record a video but i have no "luck". Today i tried to make few laps with 100% ffb but also with no freeze on steering wheel. As soon i get the problem i would record a video and send it to You.
SECOND MESSAGE:
Today i updated all the components to v365 from the link provided. At first base was working for around 3,5hours (practice -> race with crash and heavy ffb spikes from wheel damage). Everything seemed to be fine. I switched off the base for next 4 hours and switch it on again. After around 40 min i got "only steering wheel" freeze again first time since 10 days.
- Led panel is freezed, all buttons on Steering wheel are not working, rumble motor in handle bars working continuosly what you can hear on the video.
- Base was still working, FFB was present, pedals still working. (pedals are connected to the base)
- There wasnt any sign of short time disconnection to PC, like FFB disappearance or windows sound, no visual PC lag or short time PC freeze
- After base restart, SW was back.
THIRD MESSAGE:
After update to v365 everything seems to get way worse. Wheel started to freeze very frequently like every 30min-40 min no matter if it was under heavy ffb spikes (ford chickanes Le mans) or just straight line of low ffb ( Mulsane straight Le mans).
(i disconected wheel few times to check pins and put it on wheel shaft again to check if it would help but no positive resoult)
I reverted to v346 and connected new power supply yesterday (today i sent the old one to You). Until now i used it for about 8 hours and wheel freezed three times (yestreday once per 4 hours after first 15 min, today twice per 3 hours).
why oh why does it default to x-box mode when you see the first comment is :
Important: A Windows PC is mandatory!
Please make the default mode windows and this
"Is the wheel base in PC mode? Switch modes by using the mode button (if the base has one) or button combination on the steering wheel. Look at the instructions of the base and steering wheel if you don’t know how to change modes"
If I could find the instructions I would . Its a total pain
Anyway my comments are the feel of the wheel is so totally yuk. Its hard to describe the feel of the wheel, maybe spongy .
I installed the latest ( at least i think these are the latest ) driver/firmware versions:
PC Driver: 365
Wheel Base: 672
Wheel Base Motor: 38
Steering Wheel: 11
Podium Hub: 2
My Problem: My APM works fine with all 3 paddles on the left side, while on the right side only the clutch is working. The middle and the upper paddle shifter dont work. I already took everything apart again to see if some cables are loose or something like that but there is nothing i would describe as loose or strange. both sides are connected to the Podium Hub correctly and in the APM itself, all cables seems fine. I mean, the left side is working just fine and on the right side only the bottom clutch works.
Does anybody know how that is possible or what i can do?
Sorry to bother everyone, I formatted my pc to do a clean installation with the new drivers and when I returned I totally lost the base force feedback (DD2).
i just installed the drivers and everything Seems to work fine but i have some kind of input lag with the steering, it could be more directly. Any ideas? How did you setup the wheel ? Playing on ps4 f1 2019 btw
From what I've read they have already fixed this issue but wont release it until they have more fixes to go with the next full update. They wont say when it'll be released but given previous release timeframes that could be anything from 1 to 3 months away. Its the only thing stopping me from updating from the 5 month old 356 drivers currently.
I’m getting massive vibrations in Assetto corsa competizione on the straights almost as if abs kicking in. The vibrations get worse braking into a corner. It Seems to happen intermittently. I have the dynamic damper in game at 100. I was using fanalab. I’ve come out of the game and it seems it has crashed. Can fanalabs cause the vibration/ossilation issue?
on the upside, thru further testing i learned the hot swap feature is not as useless as once thought.....
When my APM cut out again , i disconnected the rim from base just enough to disengage the plug, the APM started working again without cycling power....
on the downside the counterintuitive design of the male parts of the QR make that a wash as its probably faster to cycle power...
Comments
Yeah its a xbox wheel.
Its the https://fanatec.com/eu-en/steering-wheels/clubsport-steering-wheel-formula-v2
Simply switch to PC mode (or detach the Formula v2) and then everything should work again and you can update the motor which is the reason why your fans are at 100%.
Ok, how do i switch to pc mode, and didnt i update the motor already? Was that not the prompt i got when i went in to device settings?
you only updated the wheel base firmware, not the motor. Please have a look at the Quick Guide on how to change modes on the Formula v2 wheel. Other workaround to get into PC mode is by simply detach the wheel as said.
Thank you SO MUCH man. You saved me from a sleepless night!
Just got everything installed, so everything is new for me, havnt even taken the thing for a test drive yet :)
Thanks again for the super quick reply!
What’s the default setting for fanalabs to work with ingame Assetto Corsa Competizione abs. Do I set brl to off or 100?
Good morning, yesterday I was downgrading the driver 356 since with the last version I was having some problems and while I was updating the firmware of the podium button module endurance an installation error occurred and my buuton module stopped working I have tried several more drivers old and there is no way to bring back to life this dead any idea?
Same thing happened to me while updating the firmware of the BME. You will need the DeviceModuleBootLoader tool to bring it back to working state. Up-/Downgrading the driver will not work. You will need to contact support or need to find it yourself on google.
Hi all,
First of all, I have a DD1, formula v2 rim and podium HUB with nascar rim.
What I have noticed with the drivers 365 and fanalab 1.24 since their release:
I have to start first fanalab then the DD1 otherwise the settings will not be displayed in fanalab, see the attached pics.
There is the poc when I shutdown my dd1 with the button at the back of the base.
The intensity of the poc is not always the same, sometime there is no poc at all, it seems to be random, I didn't find a combo of combination that increase or decrease it with always the same intensity.
I had 2 or 3 freezes of the base, I had to disconnect the plug as the back button didn't want to work, after plug again, all back to normal.
All others things are greats, I noticed that to reduce the FEI can smooth some harch effects and makes the feel more natural with some games.
I'm pretty much happy with these drivers as I came from the 346 and it gives a lot of improvement in the feeling.
Have a nice day guys and girls.
SEB
hi guys any clue why my fanatec ps4 doesnt work on assetto corsa ps4?
hi guys any clue why my dd1 fanatec doesnt work on assetto corsa ps4? its on ps4 mode, works perfectly on f1 2019 and other games except AC
Did one of these patches remove the old Brake ABS function of vibrating at a certain percentage of brake input? I updated from v336 to this in preparation of going from a Clubsport V2 to a DDR2, and the "BR ABS" setting is missing from the tuning menu. I installed FanaLabs as well, but it doesn't seem like it makes that same function available (specifically in iRacing).
Installed the W10 May update. Pressed Joy.cpl then Fanatec. Took really long finding the wheel. It did freeze. Restarted W10. Now it won't recognize the wheel. Uninstalled and now I am reinstalling. Hope it works. Edit: It's fine now
If you read what it says on the first page you will get answers to what has changed about ABS and everything else in this driver
Aha, so it did. Thanks for pointing it out, I was trying to scan for it across change logs, but apparently I wasn't looking close enough.
EDIT: Actually, it seems like there is one change. Previously, it only vibrated the brake pedal, but now it also seems to vibrate the wheel, which seems counter to the "functionality of the ABS didn't change" statement. Is there a configuration somewhere to make it not vibrate the wheel at the same time?
EDIT2: It seems like, with this driver installed, the BLI will vibrate both the pedals and the wheel unless FanaLabs is up and running. If FanaLabs is running (v1.24 for my test), it does go back to normal (pedals only). This is still on my Clubsport V2, if it matters.
Hi.
Currently running:
New driver 365 & Fanalab 1.24
DD2 - WB FW 672
WB MFW 38
V2 + APM - FW 34
Unfortunately facing freezes on the Formula V2 + APM wheel.
Praying that they can fix this problem as soon as possible.
Problem: Steering wheel freezes
History of the problem (emails from RMA with mr. Phillip):
FIRST MESSAGE:
i have PS4 DD1 bundle with F1 CS Steering wheel (blue one). Around month ago i made a few things in the same time:
- Clear windows install
- Base firmware upgraded to x64 v352 beta
- Hi trq unlocked via safety stick
- Force feedback increased in all configurations
Since then i experience some issues with my steering wheel (just with steering wheel, not with the base or pedals). After switch on, in first around 30 min of usage steering wheel sometimes got freezed. Buttons are not working, screen and led panel is freezed. Force feedback is still working, base is still working and pedals still working with no problem or any sign of short time disconnect or something. To unfreeze a steering wheel i need to restart the base and SW is working again.
As i mentioned before, it happens mostly in first minutes of usage when base is cold. It never happened in long session after warm up. Like base was switched on during whole 24h of Nordschleife in iRacing with 8h of hard racing and everything was fine.
I tried few things arleady:
- I checked the pins inside SW. Doesnt look like they are bend, loose or broken.
- I ckecked and reattached all cables, including usb, power cord and data cables
- I disabled selective usb power cutout on windows
- I tried Diffrent USB 3.0 and 2.0 Ports
- I reverted firmware to x64 v346
Nothing above eliminated the problem. Maybe after switching to USB 2.0 problem is less frequent but it could be just a coincidence, there is much higher ambient temperature now. Since yesterday im trying to reproduce the problem to record a video but i have no "luck". Today i tried to make few laps with 100% ffb but also with no freeze on steering wheel. As soon i get the problem i would record a video and send it to You.
SECOND MESSAGE:
Today i updated all the components to v365 from the link provided. At first base was working for around 3,5hours (practice -> race with crash and heavy ffb spikes from wheel damage). Everything seemed to be fine. I switched off the base for next 4 hours and switch it on again. After around 40 min i got "only steering wheel" freeze again first time since 10 days.
- Led panel is freezed, all buttons on Steering wheel are not working, rumble motor in handle bars working continuosly what you can hear on the video.
- Base was still working, FFB was present, pedals still working. (pedals are connected to the base)
- There wasnt any sign of short time disconnection to PC, like FFB disappearance or windows sound, no visual PC lag or short time PC freeze
- After base restart, SW was back.
THIRD MESSAGE:
After update to v365 everything seems to get way worse. Wheel started to freeze very frequently like every 30min-40 min no matter if it was under heavy ffb spikes (ford chickanes Le mans) or just straight line of low ffb ( Mulsane straight Le mans).
(i disconected wheel few times to check pins and put it on wheel shaft again to check if it would help but no positive resoult)
I reverted to v346 and connected new power supply yesterday (today i sent the old one to You). Until now i used it for about 8 hours and wheel freezed three times (yestreday once per 4 hours after first 15 min, today twice per 3 hours).
PC driver : 365
WB FB : 672
SW FB : 34
why oh why does it default to x-box mode when you see the first comment is :
Important: A Windows PC is mandatory!
Please make the default mode windows and this
"Is the wheel base in PC mode? Switch modes by using the mode button (if the base has one) or button combination on the steering wheel. Look at the instructions of the base and steering wheel if you don’t know how to change modes"
If I could find the instructions I would . Its a total pain
Anyway my comments are the feel of the wheel is so totally yuk. Its hard to describe the feel of the wheel, maybe spongy .
Contact support in this case, they should have a workaround tool if I don't mix it up.
Hi,
yesterday i received my fanatec hardware.
DD2, Podium Hub, BME, APM, Porsche 911 GT3 Rim, V3 Pedals.
I installed the latest ( at least i think these are the latest ) driver/firmware versions:
PC Driver: 365
Wheel Base: 672
Wheel Base Motor: 38
Steering Wheel: 11
Podium Hub: 2
My Problem: My APM works fine with all 3 paddles on the left side, while on the right side only the clutch is working. The middle and the upper paddle shifter dont work. I already took everything apart again to see if some cables are loose or something like that but there is nothing i would describe as loose or strange. both sides are connected to the Podium Hub correctly and in the APM itself, all cables seems fine. I mean, the left side is working just fine and on the right side only the bottom clutch works.
Does anybody know how that is possible or what i can do?
Thanks in advance.
Chris
everything he said!........
Hi.
Sorry to bother everyone, I formatted my pc to do a clean installation with the new drivers and when I returned I totally lost the base force feedback (DD2).
Before everything was normal.
Any guidance please?
I'm sorry it was a mistake.
Hi I updated to
PC drivers : 365
Wheelbase Firmware : 672
Wheelbase motor firmware : 38
I have the ClubSport Universal Hub and now read from the threads home page that only X and B buttons work.
Will there be a fix for this soon?
Hey guys,
i just installed the drivers and everything Seems to work fine but i have some kind of input lag with the steering, it could be more directly. Any ideas? How did you setup the wheel ? Playing on ps4 f1 2019 btw
From what I've read they have already fixed this issue but wont release it until they have more fixes to go with the next full update. They wont say when it'll be released but given previous release timeframes that could be anything from 1 to 3 months away. Its the only thing stopping me from updating from the 5 month old 356 drivers currently.
I’m getting massive vibrations in Assetto corsa competizione on the straights almost as if abs kicking in. The vibrations get worse braking into a corner. It Seems to happen intermittently. I have the dynamic damper in game at 100. I was using fanalab. I’ve come out of the game and it seems it has crashed. Can fanalabs cause the vibration/ossilation issue?
Dd1- Porsche-PBME-APM -v3i on Driver 365 with
reccomended settings
iRacing
Another podium performance ruined by my Podium Series.....
on the upside, thru further testing i learned the hot swap feature is not as useless as once thought.....
When my APM cut out again , i disconnected the rim from base just enough to disengage the plug, the APM started working again without cycling power....
on the downside the counterintuitive design of the male parts of the QR make that a wash as its probably faster to cycle power...
Kein Mitleid
issues have been present in all betas ,
I have owned a Fanatec since April 2018...
CSL elite,loadcell, Podium Series DD1...
fanatec 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
1:08:44 for anyone that’s interested lol and don’t want to waste time scanning through it.
Lol after reading all the problems on the beta drivers is worth it to invest in a DD1 and play on last stable driver (346) release in september 2019?
I'm not question the quality of the product is nice:) but as well can be a piece of rusty metal if you can't use with consistency.
Sorry about the off topic but it is 1200 eur :) I got to ask
Thanks.