Fanatec Driver 381 Release Candidate for CSL, CSW and Podium Bases (all wheels)



  • Are you on the latest windows version? I believe it's called 20H2.

  • Hi all,

    I'm not sure if this is the correct category here, but I think it makes sense....

    Yesterday, I switched from PS4 to PC and what should I say, an incredible huge improvement.

    My system so far:

    • DD1 PS4, Driver set 381 fully updated
    • Podium GT3 R wheel (PBME & PHUB)
    • Assetto Corsa Competizione

    Now, I have 3 minor issues:, I didn't had before on the PS4:

    1. When I drive straight, I feel a light buzz in the steering wheel, a little like engine vibration. It is gone, as soon as i steer a little to each side. Is this normal (simulation engine vibration) or a wrong Tuning menu setting?
    2. Maurice's latest Fanalab profiles are a charm, but the Tuning settings are far too light compared to a real car, e.g. at the long right-hander after the first chicane in Monza (I've driven a real 911 Cup there, so I know how it should be...) What would be the recommendation, increase Natural Friction or Natural Inertia? What would be the benefit of increasing the one or the other?
    3. When I load one of Maurice's profiles to Fanalab, I get the message, that the wheel is not corresponding and if I like to proceed anyway. This is due to the fact that Maurice uses the F1 wheel, stored at the profile?

    Thanks in advance for any clarification,


  • Regarding my profiles, you get the device mismatch because you use a DD1 and I use a DD2. Or did you used my newly created DD1 profiles already? If not and you use my DD2 profiles then this would also explained why you feel steering is too light. The Cup Car profile was created with a 330mm steering wheel with BME and PHub, not with a Formula Wheel and it should feel plenty strong but you would need to multiply the FF of the Tuning Menu with 1.25 when yoh use the DD2 profiles with a DD1..

  • Hi Maurice,

    Thank you for the fast reply.

    I've imported your latest DD1 ACC profiles, posted on December, 2nd.

    My setting are now as follows, now feeling similar to a real car (changes from the recommended in bolt):

    • SEN 1080
    • FF 50
    • LIN Off
    • NDP 15
    • NFR 15
    • NIN 10
    • INT 2
    • FEI 100
    • FOR 100
    • SPR 100
    • DPR 100
    • SHO 100

    In-Game Settings:

    • Steer lock: 1080
    • Gain: 68
    • Min Force: 3
    • Dynamic Damping: 100
    • Road Effects: 5

  • Well. FF 50 is not what I use in any DD1 profile as this is indeed way too light... All in all you use quite different settings and not the ones I used in the profiles...

    I would suggest also to turn off NFR and NIN and very important dont use Cannes effects for road effects. Also the slight buzz you feel on straights is because of FEI 100. I only use FEI 80 to get rid of this. You also never wanna use any kind of minimum force on a DD wheel.

  • Hi Maurice,

    ok, will give it at try.

    Are your Tuning menu settings from the Fanalab profile different to the recommendation here in the ACC thread? Haven't checked this, just adjusted the latter to my personal feel.

  • edited December 2020

    yes they are COMPLETELY different, also special for every individual car! The recommended settings are very basic and save settings not fine-tuned for every individual car and therefore ok'ish for one car but very bad for other cars.

    For the Porsche Cup Car its these:

    • SEN Auto
    • FF 69
    • LIN Off
    • NDP 25
    • NFR OFF
    • NIN OFF
    • INT 2
    • FEI 80
    • FOR 100
    • SPR OFF
    • DPR 050
    • SHO OFF

    In-Game Settings:

    • Steer lock: 1070
    • Gain: 60
    • Min Force: 0
    • Dynamic Damping: 100
    • Road Effects: 0

  • Thanks a lot, will try this as soon as I've got my rig together again.

    Just had it disassembled to add an "adjustable steering column", to bypass the different depth between the 918 RSR wheel and the PHUB/PBME....

  • Hello

    I installed the new drivers/firmwares earlier this week with no issue (DD1/McLaren gt3 wheel) however yesterday evening during a 3hours race on acc i had 2big jolts, it's the first time i experience this issue it's not pleasant.The worrying thing is that i never used any other screen than the fanatec one...i hope it can be fixed because the ffb is great compared with the 335 drivers i was using before.


  • Jolts are being investigated again next year, but nothing which can be fixed anytime soon.

  • I'm not sure why my PC didn't update. I install and will revist 381. I will let you know if it works.

    Hopefully it will.

  • Thanks for posting this, looks like I will be waiting some more time to update, shame... Itjust shouldnt happen on these kind of wheels with non-beta drivers, I had random jolts on anything above 346/347 no matter what page my base was in, so im sticking to these old ones until its fixed.

  • Same here... Hope it can be fixed. Especially in iRacing it's annoying because I run FFB at 90% in the driver. With ACC it's less of an issue because I race with 50% strength in Fanalab.

  • edited December 2020

    The random clunk seems to be back again. Feel like it was gone in the 3.73 drivers, but using 3.81 with my dd1 in ACC I will occasionally get a clunk/jolt. Seems like its random and when it happens its not under a heavy load at all.

    Just realized after looking up, it's already been reported, but i'll leave this here just for widespread awareness.

  • Yes they were never gone unfortunately. Will be attacked next year and hopefully can be fixed soon then.

    For now it helps to stay on the default FANATEC OLED page which helps for most users to not get Jolts anymore.

  • Having the same issue after updating from previous version 380 to 381 handbrake is now mapped to rotary encoder. have reflashed twice still the same. will have to go back to 380

  • have now tried rolling back software but handbrake control remains on rotary encoder

  • I have now had to disconnect handbrake and pedals from the base and connect them through usb to pc. but still when I use encoder hand brake increases and decreases in fanatec wheel property page.

  • ok so after i tried plugging my dd2 into a different pc everything worked fine on that pc so uninstalled driver software again then reset controller in devices and printers. reinstalled drivers and now works fine.

  • Hello,

    I've upgraded the drivers from 380 to 381. Firmware update went fine with my DD1 but when I try to update the firmware for my F1 2020 LE wheel the wheel starts vibrating and the DD1 oled screen goes black when the updater windows shows up. When I click on the "connect" button the firmware updater hangs and I have to switch off and on again the DD1.

    Apart from this issue, everything seems to be working fine but at the moment I cannot update the firmware of my F1 2020 wheel. Not that this would be a too big deal for me but I would like to understand if I'm the only one experiencing this and if there is a safe workaround to this issue.



  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    can you please zip and upload the log files from C:\Users\Public\Fanatec Logs

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    Check the known issues and the instructions coming with the driver, both suggest to run the repair function of the driver installer while the base is plugged in and running.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    It's a very weird issue that no one else seems to have which indicates it could be a hardware problem. We try to get our head around it but without being able to reproduce it we can't do much more than guessing

  • Thanks, Marcel, for acknowledging it - I was beginning to think i had offended someone :-)

    I can certainly understand the difficulty from your point of view if you can't replicate it, or nobody else is reporting the same problem. But the part I can't understand is that if it was a hardware problem it should surely occur regardless of which firmware I use. I have reverted back to 373 and it's firmware 4 times now, and without exception it has rectified the problem every time.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    Even though the setting is called DRI which stands for drift I would actually never use it and keep it OFF for the best feeling. The V2.5 has so little internal resistance that this setting which got introduced for the V1 base which had a lot of reistance is not really needed anymore to drift well.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    It's normal that the vibration motors of the Formula V2 are running during the firmware update, no reason to be concerned. It's an cosmetic issue in the bootloader which we can only solve on new wheels by having a new bootloader. But as it's no issue during use just be aware that it can happen during the update bit is no problem

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    Can you describe the situations in which they happened?

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    Does it show a message when it hangs? You could zip the log files and upload them here. C:\Users\Public\Fanatec Logs

    You can also try a different USB port or also PC if available to see if it makes a difference.

    Btw the vibration during FW update is normal and not the problem.

  • Marcus FehnMarcus Fehn Member
    edited December 2020

    Hi Marcel. I'm having the same problem, and neither repair nor restarts nor re-installs of the driver are of any help. Should I go back to 380?

    Ok, I'm an idiot. The base simply switched to XBOX mode. *facepalm*

This discussion has been closed.