Sounds like not being a firmware issue, please check your wiring, maybe try if you an provoke it from losing connection to see where the problem might be and contact support if you need more help.
we are currently gathering as much information as we can get on when it happens, how it feels and what might influence it. Also it would be interesting to know if you have the same problem with earlier motor firmware versions, so I'll attach them here for you to try. We want to look into it soon.
Hi Marcel, thanks for the update. I can confirm that I'm not currently experiencing it with Motor Firmware V20 ( I didn't try v18 as I heard it has bad coil whine).
Quick findings from me (mentioned in other thread, but I'll repeat): Doesn't happen on boot up of base. Tends to happen after being in game (tested in AC and ACC - only two games I play). A re-power of base then removes the notchy feeling, which then comes back once in game and done a race.
Mhm that's pretty weird because pretty much everyone else says the new driver and firmwares are a huuuuge improvement in general FFB Feeling and I really cant even imagine to go back to the 346 firmwares...
Thank you, that improved a lot! All of a sudden a lot more details in the FFB without any loss in strength!
Now I can feel tire rubbing, much better curb feeling and no more motor spinning noise from the wheelbase.
I had made the suggestion with FEI at 80 at the beginning from the beta driver testing, because it reduced the jolt problem, now that this problem was solved with the new release I was going back to 100 because I didn't want to reduce any ingame signal.
But now it's like everything over 80 results in a effect compareable to clipping, but just for smaller FFB ''effects'' plus additional overreactions from the wheelbase itself.
Thank you again for the suggestion, now I can stay with the new driver finally xD
Nice that you are finally enjoying the new driver :)
However, you say the Jolts are fixed with the latest drivers and therefore you increased FEI back to 100...
Unfortunately the Jolts are NOT fixed and it will still take some time until they hopefully can be fixed sometime hopefully next year so if you had Jolts before and reducing FEI helped then this is another reason to run FEI at 80 :)
With that latest version both thumb encoders inputs became inconsistent on the Podium Racing Wheel PS4, especially the left one, which wasn't the case before.
I noticed it playing ACC on PS5 (PS4 version on the game).
Anyone else having that issue? This game has quite a few bugs on PS4 with this wheel so maybe it has nothing to do with this drivers?
Is it safe to revert back to the previous drivers?
Wheel Base Model (product ID): Podium Racing Wheel PS4
The workaround not using the Fanatec display while dirving works pretty good, didn't had any jolt.
At the beginning from the Beta testing (a few driver before 346, over a year ago) I noticed that the jolts occure much heavier and more often as soon as you go over [FEI] 80.
That problem was gone with Driver 346, you could use [FEI] 100 without any spikes and even with any display mode activated.
But looks like a few other problems can occure now if you go over [FEI] 80 with the newest driver:
Loss of detail (curbs, tire rubbing)
no FFB gain (90 and 100 doesn't feel any stronger than 80)
more artificial FFB noise (most noticeable while standing, at low pace or with quick direction changes)
I would recommend some kind of display warning when you go over [FEI] 80.
The info at [FEI] 100: 1:1 FFB from the game
sounds like something you actually want to use (= no loss in detail), but it's actually the opposite result. Just an idea.
Ok after now one year i decided to by the new Porsche wheel with the pbme on my cls elite and updated all to the new software and what i have to see nothing works
only see the club sport universal hub not the pbme module and only the shifter works
can someone tell us what year this will work or i need to send this back about is not compatible at all ???
i like to run this about i have this also in my car
thanks for the help on this and please say on you order page on top this is setup is only working with the DD system as long no software is available marry christmas and a happy new year
Since i buyed the wheel in May i have problems withg the ffb in rf2. When i work on sets and esc/drive more often the ffb changes and its feeling like something is rubbing in the base. This ONLY accures in rF2, more people have the problem and ffb reset ingame doesnt help
Comments
You don't need the USB adapter, a USB cable should be included with the V3s.
And yes, maybe the RJ12 cable is damaged or something.
you can upload or send me files via personal messege here in the forum
thanks for your help
yes
Sounds like not being a firmware issue, please check your wiring, maybe try if you an provoke it from losing connection to see where the problem might be and contact support if you need more help.
Thank u Sascha, maybe i forgot to say i using Fanatec Elite Pedals and got them from my cousin . So i just have the RJ12
we are currently gathering as much information as we can get on when it happens, how it feels and what might influence it. Also it would be interesting to know if you have the same problem with earlier motor firmware versions, so I'll attach them here for you to try. We want to look into it soon.
Press the mode button for 5 seconds until the LED gets purple. It first goes yellow, then purple
Hi Marcel, thanks for the update. I can confirm that I'm not currently experiencing it with Motor Firmware V20 ( I didn't try v18 as I heard it has bad coil whine).
Quick findings from me (mentioned in other thread, but I'll repeat): Doesn't happen on boot up of base. Tends to happen after being in game (tested in AC and ACC - only two games I play). A re-power of base then removes the notchy feeling, which then comes back once in game and done a race.
Appreciate you looking into it.
I didn't used any beta driver for the DD1 over a year, but gave it another chance now.
Driver 381 (compared to driver 346 / doesn't happen there):
Otherwise Driver 381 is good, but with the old driver 346 I get a much better curb FFB and overall a more smooth feeling (not so much noise/notches).
I woild suggest to Erase Motor Calibration in the driver and try again. Should resolved the notchy Feeling.
Thanks, Marcel!!! I don´t know why ut it stopeed doing that for while wih previous versions!
Did that 3 times, it's definitely related to the characteristics of the driver.
Notchy is maybe the wrong word, it's like this driver produces a lot more noise/scratching, I can feel the spinning of the motor,
while the driver346 uses the FFB signal much better/ smoother without anything around it, which results in a clearer and more natural FFB.
Maybe other people don't notice that, or are getting used to it.
But that feeling and the fact that you can't feel any curbs makes driver 346 still the better option imo.
Mhm that's pretty weird because pretty much everyone else says the new driver and firmwares are a huuuuge improvement in general FFB Feeling and I really cant even imagine to go back to the 346 firmwares...
Which game? Which INT and FEI settings are you using? You can loose details very easy with the "wrong" settings.
Yes that's what's everybody is telling me xD That's why I tried it again, can't wrap my head around it...
ACC and rF2
INT 6 and FEI 100.
Also tried INT at 3, still the curb FFB is gone compared to driver 346.
Try FEI at 80. 100 is way too rough for my (and 90% of all other users) liking.
Thank you, that improved a lot! All of a sudden a lot more details in the FFB without any loss in strength!
Now I can feel tire rubbing, much better curb feeling and no more motor spinning noise from the wheelbase.
I had made the suggestion with FEI at 80 at the beginning from the beta driver testing, because it reduced the jolt problem, now that this problem was solved with the new release I was going back to 100 because I didn't want to reduce any ingame signal.
But now it's like everything over 80 results in a effect compareable to clipping, but just for smaller FFB ''effects'' plus additional overreactions from the wheelbase itself.
Thank you again for the suggestion, now I can stay with the new driver finally xD
Nice that you are finally enjoying the new driver :)
However, you say the Jolts are fixed with the latest drivers and therefore you increased FEI back to 100...
Unfortunately the Jolts are NOT fixed and it will still take some time until they hopefully can be fixed sometime hopefully next year so if you had Jolts before and reducing FEI helped then this is another reason to run FEI at 80 :)
Hello there,
With that latest version both thumb encoders inputs became inconsistent on the Podium Racing Wheel PS4, especially the left one, which wasn't the case before.
I noticed it playing ACC on PS5 (PS4 version on the game).
Anyone else having that issue? This game has quite a few bugs on PS4 with this wheel so maybe it has nothing to do with this drivers?
Is it safe to revert back to the previous drivers?
Cheers.
The workaround not using the Fanatec display while dirving works pretty good, didn't had any jolt.
At the beginning from the Beta testing (a few driver before 346, over a year ago) I noticed that the jolts occure much heavier and more often as soon as you go over [FEI] 80.
That problem was gone with Driver 346, you could use [FEI] 100 without any spikes and even with any display mode activated.
But looks like a few other problems can occure now if you go over [FEI] 80 with the newest driver:
I would recommend some kind of display warning when you go over [FEI] 80.
The info at [FEI] 100: 1:1 FFB from the game
sounds like something you actually want to use (= no loss in detail), but it's actually the opposite result. Just an idea.
In addition: When I use FEI 80 I don't get any jolts, as soon as I jump to 90 I get a few and at 100 a horse starts kicking the DD1.
(Tested with ACC in Wheelbase display ''trigger'' mode). Maybe that information can help you guys.
Ok after now one year i decided to by the new Porsche wheel with the pbme on my cls elite and updated all to the new software and what i have to see nothing works
only see the club sport universal hub not the pbme module and only the shifter works
can someone tell us what year this will work or i need to send this back about is not compatible at all ???
i like to run this about i have this also in my car
thanks for the help on this and please say on you order page on top this is setup is only working with the DD system as long no software is available marry christmas and a happy new year
CSL Elite has yet to be confirmed as compatible Steffen. And this is clearly written on the product page of the BME.
It only got CSW compatibility some months ago.
It might never work on the original CSL Elite v1 Base as only CSL Elite PS4 Base was confirmed to get compatibility sometime in 2021...
I have the CSL elite for ps4 just had to replace it about the old one broke with no reason
I hope we have this Running fast i have a lot of Friends what like to have this ps. Is the usb working?
danke für die Hilfe ich hoffe wir bekommen das möglichst schnell mfg und schöne Weihnachten und einen guten Rutsch
Im so fckn dissapointed atm
Since i buyed the wheel in May i have problems withg the ffb in rf2. When i work on sets and esc/drive more often the ffb changes and its feeling like something is rubbing in the base. This ONLY accures in rF2, more people have the problem and ffb reset ingame doesnt help
AFAIK this is a game issue and the Game Developer has to fix it.
Dont have rF2 to test but thats what I heard sometime ago, but dont know for sure...
It also happens when you use a car with old FFB and switch to a car with current/new FFB implementation. Only a restart of rF2 helps.
Nothing Fanatec can do about it, it's a bug from rF2.