Gran Turismo 7 (PS4/PS5) - Fanatec Recommended Settings

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  • Hugo VranicHugo Vranic Member
    edited June 2022

    I'm finally joining the people complaining at PD. The FFB was infinitely better in 1.15 - and now they butcher it again...

  • totally agree. They totally screwed me, yesterday in qualy of the daily B my times were 1.41.3/1.41.8. Today after the update I am closer to 1.43 than 1.42. I feel absolutely nothing in the corners, it's ridiculous.

    Let's see if Maurice tries it out and finds some decent config, because going back now sucks.

  • Will i be able to use my previous dd pro settings prior to the patch that removed the ffb for this new patch that fixed it? Is there an updated version??

  • Neither Maurice nor anyone else but PD can fix this, unfortunately. There's no magic in the Fanatec tuning settings.

    I'm off trying other games until we have the 1.15 FFB back, but preferably with more strength.

  • Well, it seems to me that 1.15 will not return, since they paid attention to those who only care about strength and do not care about not feeling anything and they have treated this as a simple bug.

  • Let's hope you're wrong. I'll have a hard time going back to vastly inferior FFB.

  • Louis PassaroLouis Passaro Member
    edited June 2022

    I liked Maurice’s settings too but PD just put out 1.16. I think they only changed a few super cars and the majority went back to the FFB of pre 1.15.

    I would like to keep the current 1.15 but here we are.


    Anyone have a recommendation to get closer to Maurice’s 1.15 settings? I can’t test anything till tomorrow

  • Having settled in with Maurice's settings for 1.15 I could forgive the lack of feedback when in a straight line on tracks like Cirque de la Sarthe in GT7 as his workaround was a) great and b) improved feedback through the corners and over curbs.

    I tried these settings with GT7 1.16 and sadly they are awful. I also went back to the settings originally at the start of this post and these whilst not as bad as 1.15, sadly deliver a loss of feeling in the corners for the road surface, and over curbs, both in feedback, and I believe clipping (is this where there's a dead zone?), It's just plain wrong. It feels as though you're steering through soup whilst tied to an elastic band.

    I'd actually say that these settings are more dangerous than with the three VGT cars that started this whole charade. If Maurice is otherwise engaged in other business, I'll have to at least reduce the force of my DD Pro/ McLaren V2 GT3, before my 8-year son jumps back on.

    What a mess, seriously. PD.

  • Guys, I feel like the best thing to do to get them to really take notice is social media. GT has a post on 1.15 updates on twitter, I say we go and just let them know our thoughts so they can sort this out. It seems like their truly lost. 1.15 was actually great in terms of detail but just lacking in FFB strength, it shouldn't be that hard for them. Let's make this known!

  • GT7 1.16 with DD Pro

    What are the correct settings now?

  • That's the thing. They have a post about 1.15 where are ppl complaining they have no FFB strength. There is no 1.16 post.

  • Unfortunately, I am a novice in SimRacing. Have my SimRig only for 2 months. Everything that happens with GT7 and the FFB setting confuses me. It would be nice to finally get used to something. 

  • So after some tinkering tonight I have adapted the original settings to Maurice’s 1.15 and came up with something that I can live with. Keep in mind the Nat Inertia and Nat Fri are 100% subjective.


    sen: auto

    FF str: 077

    FF scale: Linear

    Nat DPR: 042

    Nat Fri: 015

    Nat Inert: 005

    FF Int: 02

    FEI:90

    FOR:120

    SPR:080

    DPR:080

    In game settings


    Controller sensitivity 10

    FFMT: 8

    FFS: 1

  • After much tinkering, this is where I settled last night - much different to George (will try his options for comparison on another preset later this evening), but I felt I had good strength, and somewhat improved FFB in the corners, but nothing like 1.15 :( I'm GT DD PRO 5nm.

    I ran laps with INT up at 11 to start with and it was ok but then I dialled it back a couple of notches every couple of laps and was happiest with it off.

    SEN: AUTO

    FFB: 100

    FFS: PEAK

    NDP: 60

    NFR: OFF

    NIN: OFF

    INT: OFF

    FEI: 100

    FOR: 110

    SPR: 30

    DPR: 50

    In-Game Settings:

    Force Feedback Max. Torque: 4

    Force Feedback Sensitivity: 10

  • Hugo VranicHugo Vranic Member
    edited June 2022

    You can't make up a lack of FFB signal with adding special effects such as NDP/INT/NFR/NIN and so on. Fanatec tuning menu has nothing to do with the poor signal from the game - only PD can fix it. All the "magic" formulas are pointless.

    So don't waste your time. Use it for trying games with good FFB so you know how it's supposed to feel and what the potential of the Fanatec wheels is, and then bomb PD in social media instead. 1.15 was good on DD and very similar to other games - just increase the strength.

  • any configuration for CSL elite after this last update?

  • I agree entirely RE1.15 and just adding strength.

    I also agree that there's no there's no magic formula, but I'm not rushing out to buy another game right now just to prove a point to myself and PD.

    Instead, I found something that works with GT7, for me, better than the Fanatec recommended settings. Sure, you might not take any note, but maybe it'll help someone.

    I've already complained to GT. Do PD have an official twitter account? Be happy to give them some grief about it too.

    Surely Fanatec themselves must be pretty unimpressed with this? They have an affiliation with GT and I and many others have spend a load of cash on GT DD Pro setups... They'll have equally as loud a voice as us. I'm reading that a lot of users think it's fixed as of 1.16, as it's stronger again, which is completely missing the point... but their voices are also heard.

  • Vincent WhiteVincent White Member
    edited June 2022

    Has anyone tried running in game max torque at 10 & FFB at 50-60?

  • edited June 2022

    That's not a good idea.

    A GT DD 5Nm Base would be reduced to 2.5Nm Peak and a GT DD 8Nm Base would be reduced to 4Nm Peak with FFB set to only 50.

    Combined with a way too high in game FFB strength this will lead to Clipping.

  • Maurice, what is your current setting now? What wheelbase/NM are you running?


  • It felt the same strength to me but with more detail in corners. I'm certainly not a settings guru & you are way more informed on these matters.

  • Louis PassaroLouis Passaro Member
    edited June 2022

    Well Maurice I was really enjoying your settings with 1.15. Now it’s back to zero feeling and a bunch of FFB because the masses complained.


    Its sad PD is reacting to vocal minority of social media but isn’t that what companies do now?


    Are you going back to the Fanatec recommend now?

  • This is what proper FFB settings look like in a game. Taken from RaceRoom. Look closely.



    It's absolutely beyond me how PD don't implement this and how they don't even seem to understand it.

  • Maurice,

    With my Podium DD1 PS4 I am running FFB at 44 with in game setting of 6 and 10, while it works I want to make sure I am not getting into clipping.

    Thanks,

    Steve

  • You'll experience some kind of clipping, or it at least feels like it, even with 1/1. That's the entire issue - it can't be avoided right now. Maurice has already explained it.

  • Nate SheppardNate Sheppard Member
    edited June 2022


    Heya, so I know it says this isn't recommended, but in my hunt for a less aggressive setup for my recent hand and shoulder pain, I actually came up with a setup that does exactly this that I have enjoyed and cleaned up all but one remaining Circuit Experience gold yesterday (Nordschliefe 1lap). I had no idea you WEREN'T supposed to do this with games, and actually I've had FF under 80% for months because I thought it was like a "mass-overall-reduction" without touching any one thing too much individually. I thought the FF setting was less of a "reducing what it can accept from the game," and more of an "overall % strength of every other setting."

    ANYWHO, I'd appreciate any feedback (lul) on my settings. Maybe I just don't know what I'm missing? But yeah like everyone else I really wish they would've kept the emergency settings and just boosted the strength a tiny bit.


    GTDD Pro 8nm 1.16 Settings

    SEN: AUTO

    FFB: 54 (I dunno why I settled on this, but I like it around 60 for high powered cars it seems. At 70 and above, I did notice oscillations again at very high speeds, like the Le Mans straights in the Circuit Experience)

    FFS: PEAK

    NDP: 34

    NFR: OFF

    NIN: OFF

    INT: 3

    FEI: 100

    FOR: 100

    SPR: 100

    DPR: 70

    In-Game Settings:

    Force Feedback Max. Torque: 10

    Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1 (Just before I added this post, I was playing around with this set to 3 and the car was MUCH more responsive. 2-3 might be the play for me.)

    Countersteering: OFF

    Active Stability Assist: OFF

    TCS 1

  • While in a high speed corner, adjusting throttle or brake, you should feel weight shift and traction difference in your wheel. You should also feel the smallest bump in the road. No matter if you run high FFB and low in-game max torque, or low FFB and high in-game torque as you're suggesting, this is gone - you're just feeling a strong spring effect towards center. That's called clipping, since the peaks of FFB signal have been clipped/cut off, and all that remains is a constant signal, making it feel smooth and absolutely uninformative. You can easily re-create this sensation in other games if you do obviously stupid things with the FFB settings and induce clipping.

    And yes, maybe you don't know what you're missing. Try any of the popular PC sims, or ACC on PS5, and you'll see. The FFB doesn't and shouldn't go numb in corners. It's objectively wrong, not a matter of preference. And it's not something that can be blamed on Fanatec or saved by the tuning settings. If more people understood this and demanded proper FFB, maybe we'd get it.

    Correct me if I'm wrong.

  • Ahh okay yeah as you spelled it out, I definitely remember feeling those things a lot more in 1.15 with Maurice's settings. I think it's more that GT was lacking it for so long, and then suddenly got it, and now it's gone again that it's hard for me to accurately compare them or understand what I am trying to get the wheel to accomplish. I thought maybe I was going crazy yesterday because it felt so smooth, but I now see that THAT is exactly the problem. I mean I was driving over rumble strips today on purpose and it felt smooth so I knew something was up.

    So it's not a matter of "making it feel right as-is," it's a matter of "information is missing" and there's no way to make it seem like it's there. Good stuff, I'm still fairly new to the wheelbase and I'm trying to learn as much as I can, so starting with the GT series and its poor feedback really gives me no idea what it could truly be like, and what I HAVE learned is that I should load up ACC and actually race it for a little and the difference will be very clear hahaha.

  • Nate SheppardNate Sheppard Member
    edited June 2022

    But seriously I'm really confused how I was backwards on the FFB setting. Like you know how you can set an entire page of sliders, and then you move the "MAIN" slider, and it makes ALL of the sliders move back and forth? Like on an equalizer? That's how I thought the FF% works. I thought it was just the percentage of output of every other setting, so by leaving game settings alone and going to 60-80% on the wheel, it would just take 100% of the signal from the game and output my wheel settings at 60-80%.

    So if I can't use the FF% like that, is there a setting that does function that way? I'm worried that by turning the max down in-game, I will lose the lower end of the FFB. Like you know how you can clip over the top as you said by going too high? Wouldn't turning the settings down in-game reduce the information sent to the wheel instead of reducing the strength of the information? Or does lowering the in-game max allow the small tiny details to still come through just with a lower ceiling? I'm really trying to understand all of this. Thanks!

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