which wheel? did you update your base fw first? Is your base maybe in Xbox mode after the update? Please check if the ring around the power button is red or green.
Im sorry, got your message wrong, the small vibration motors in the wheels don't work after you made the update,right? Did you already try the vibration test in the property page? Do you use the same wheel settings as prior to the update?
You mean the small vibration motors in your wheels, right? Did you already check if you are using the same wheel settings as before the update and tested the vibrations in the property page?
Running a CSL Elite Racing Wheel (PS4), CSL Elite Pedals LC, CS Shifter and CS Handbrake. Been running official firmware included in official driver version 328 until end of August. Decided to try driver version 372, 373, 374 then 380 and now on 381. All firmware updated to latest versions.
Commented on the same topic on November 9th running driver version 380. The Compatibility Mode for the CSL Elite Racing Wheel (PS4) is not working at all in neither yellow (Fanatec ClubSport Wheel Base V2) nor purple (6 axis 14 button device with hat switch) mode. Yellow mode will now ask for a firmware update every time the Fanatec Wheel Properties is opened. Purple mode opens the properties page, but no axis are working just the buttons and the hat switch.
I am starting to sound like a broken record, but since no one seems to react or even interested in resolving the problem I will keep posting. Compatibility Mode is a part of the product and since it is has not been working for many versions, it makes me wonder where your focus is?
I have installed this FFB because today my wheel suddenly became light in ACC and it never recovered. Now installed this Firmware and right after installation and calibration I get this problem - I get multiple buttons clicked while physically only pressing one button. Please see the picture above. There are various combinations - but basically you just click a single button on the wheel and the input gets sent for 3 buttons. Sometimes I believe a combination of buttons leads to the wheel changing the mode from PC to COMP, which disconnects the wheel and you lose your input. What do I do now?
To be more precise - I've been having this issue like 3 weeks ago with an older driver (34x?) too, but with the 380 it only happened once and then it never appeared again - but now I have this and this time there is aboslutely 0 physical change on the wheel, everything is the same, so I am back to the idea that this is caused by some software issue after all.
after some hours of driving now with this driver im finding (on ACC at least) that the wheel base is a bit noisier and aggressive, a little more clunking over bumps, the kind you would expect from settings FEI to 100 and interpolation on the lower side, i just cant seem to tune it out with this driver, even settings FEI down to 50 when on previous driver i would use 80 and putting interpolation to 6 or 7 when previously i would use 3-4 and it just seems to stay quite aggressive and noisy.
ive now gone back to the previous driver and it feels smoother and is quieter, a situation in which this can be tested would be stamping on the brakes on ACC and coming to a complete stop the wheel becomes violent as the wheels start to lock up and come to a stop, this was always normal on the previous driver but manageable and ''acceptable'' but on this latest patch this violence is significantly higher at lower settings as described above.
anybody else feel this way about this driver or am i overthinking it a bit? i certainly feel the difference going from one to the other and have reverted back to previous driver.
Marcel or Sascha, can you please take a look at this problem. I'm absolutely stuck. I've loaded the 346 driver twice and still no pedals. I've double or triple checked all connections and I don't know what else to try. HELP!
Hi Carl, the connection between the base and pedals is fine? can you try a different Rj12 cable? Did you already run the repair function of the driver?
I did try the repair function and that didn't seem to do anything. I don't have another rj12, only rj11 but will see if I can come up with another RJ12 cable. Thanks, Sascha.
please also check the RJ12 cable and if it is correctly plugged in both on the base and the pedals. did you try to connect the pedals via USB and see if they work again? if you want to try please disconnect them from the base before.
Yahoo!! I got my pedals back! When you suggested maybe connecting by USB, I looked at the circuit board to see how that was possible and I noticed a second RJ12 receptacle alongside the USB port. On a whim, I plugged the RJ12 cable into that second port and the pedals came back to life. Heretofore, I had only plugged the cable into the one port on the side opposite the USB port. I'm back in business! Thanks for your help and persistence Sascha!
After testing variuos settings i just cant get the feeling in ACC. Different story in AC where the driving sensation is still good. Some doubts emerge on this driver.
Hello Guys I would like to ask you a question. A friend of mine tried to update from 328 drivers to 381 his new wheel Clubsport Steering Wheel Carbon. During the firmware update it showed something Hex File failed and the update somehow stacked and nothing happened during this time. We tried to unplug the USB and plug it again (restart the wheel base) but then this light stacked and now the USB cannot be recognised neither to the port of the PC nor to a laptop. Can you find a solution please. Thanks a lot I am waiting for an answer
Installed driver and firmware in place of 346. I had com port errors when I tried it first time but it "took" on the second attempt. I played around with it for a couple of hours and went back to 346 to compare (346 updated without incident). Definately more information in 381 feelings.
I then updated to 381 again and again got constant com port errors when updating the motor firmware. Tried every available usb port. No joy.
I uninstalled the driver, restarted, re-installed the driver and the firmware update went in first time. So if anyone gets Com port errors or such like when updating motor firmware, try uninstalling, restarting, re-installing and attempting the flash again.
Edit: (I had tried 352 before but couldn't get it dialled in)
Thanks for answering but my base could not open at all after I disconnected it from the electrical outlet so something happened in it. I will contact with the support tomorrow. Thanks again to both of you!
did you try to switch to PC mode though? Jarno is right, the base seems to be in compatibility mode. In this mode the base is NOT recognized by the PC.
Yeah Sascha the pc mode was on, I mean the lead was red during the update, here the base's led is changing colors while it is updating..I have also a characteristic video of my base when it cannot open at all but I can upload it due to its extension..
Comments
Yes identical. In ACC is run gain at 46% in game menu and dynamic damping at 100 in game.
All wheel settings are left at default /100%. The only change I make is run drift setting at - 1.
CSL elite LC pedals are direct via USB too....
So not sure if the drift settings are any different on v20 to v22 motor firmware.
I'm not sure if v20 feels a little less sharp because of changes to drift setting or the ffb frequency changed. Or has changes to spring setting?
It could also be placebo, but I'm almost certain it feels different. With the v22 motor firmware I feel more connected for whatever reason.
Help, please, after updating (CSW 2.5) motors of the vibration of the wheels don't work!
EDIT: phiew, downgraded the fw my wheels motors are came back to life! :)
which wheel? did you update your base fw first? Is your base maybe in Xbox mode after the update? Please check if the ring around the power button is red or green.
My wheel are Porsche 918 and Formula Black. I made the updating in the same way of always. this time is gone wrong (for the first time)
Im sorry, got your message wrong, the small vibration motors in the wheels don't work after you made the update,right? Did you already try the vibration test in the property page? Do you use the same wheel settings as prior to the update?
Im sorry, got your message wrong.
You mean the small vibration motors in your wheels, right? Did you already check if you are using the same wheel settings as before the update and tested the vibrations in the property page?
Usually I don't remove the wheel from the base when i update. Is it a mistake?
no that's fine.
Running a CSL Elite Racing Wheel (PS4), CSL Elite Pedals LC, CS Shifter and CS Handbrake. Been running official firmware included in official driver version 328 until end of August. Decided to try driver version 372, 373, 374 then 380 and now on 381. All firmware updated to latest versions.
Commented on the same topic on November 9th running driver version 380. The Compatibility Mode for the CSL Elite Racing Wheel (PS4) is not working at all in neither yellow (Fanatec ClubSport Wheel Base V2) nor purple (6 axis 14 button device with hat switch) mode. Yellow mode will now ask for a firmware update every time the Fanatec Wheel Properties is opened. Purple mode opens the properties page, but no axis are working just the buttons and the hat switch.
I am starting to sound like a broken record, but since no one seems to react or even interested in resolving the problem I will keep posting. Compatibility Mode is a part of the product and since it is has not been working for many versions, it makes me wonder where your focus is?
I have installed this FFB because today my wheel suddenly became light in ACC and it never recovered. Now installed this Firmware and right after installation and calibration I get this problem - I get multiple buttons clicked while physically only pressing one button. Please see the picture above. There are various combinations - but basically you just click a single button on the wheel and the input gets sent for 3 buttons. Sometimes I believe a combination of buttons leads to the wheel changing the mode from PC to COMP, which disconnects the wheel and you lose your input. What do I do now?
To be more precise - I've been having this issue like 3 weeks ago with an older driver (34x?) too, but with the 380 it only happened once and then it never appeared again - but now I have this and this time there is aboslutely 0 physical change on the wheel, everything is the same, so I am back to the idea that this is caused by some software issue after all.
Aaaaah this is so frustrating... 😥
after some hours of driving now with this driver im finding (on ACC at least) that the wheel base is a bit noisier and aggressive, a little more clunking over bumps, the kind you would expect from settings FEI to 100 and interpolation on the lower side, i just cant seem to tune it out with this driver, even settings FEI down to 50 when on previous driver i would use 80 and putting interpolation to 6 or 7 when previously i would use 3-4 and it just seems to stay quite aggressive and noisy.
ive now gone back to the previous driver and it feels smoother and is quieter, a situation in which this can be tested would be stamping on the brakes on ACC and coming to a complete stop the wheel becomes violent as the wheels start to lock up and come to a stop, this was always normal on the previous driver but manageable and ''acceptable'' but on this latest patch this violence is significantly higher at lower settings as described above.
anybody else feel this way about this driver or am i overthinking it a bit? i certainly feel the difference going from one to the other and have reverted back to previous driver.
Maybe put which system you are using....? (DD2, DD1, ClubSport, CSL Elite..., etc.)
Marcel or Sascha, can you please take a look at this problem. I'm absolutely stuck. I've loaded the 346 driver twice and still no pedals. I've double or triple checked all connections and I don't know what else to try. HELP!
Hi Carl, the connection between the base and pedals is fine? can you try a different Rj12 cable? Did you already run the repair function of the driver?
I did try the repair function and that didn't seem to do anything. I don't have another rj12, only rj11 but will see if I can come up with another RJ12 cable. Thanks, Sascha.
please also check the RJ12 cable and if it is correctly plugged in both on the base and the pedals. did you try to connect the pedals via USB and see if they work again? if you want to try please disconnect them from the base before.
Yahoo!! I got my pedals back! When you suggested maybe connecting by USB, I looked at the circuit board to see how that was possible and I noticed a second RJ12 receptacle alongside the USB port. On a whim, I plugged the RJ12 cable into that second port and the pedals came back to life. Heretofore, I had only plugged the cable into the one port on the side opposite the USB port. I'm back in business! Thanks for your help and persistence Sascha!
After testing variuos settings i just cant get the feeling in ACC. Different story in AC where the driving sensation is still good. Some doubts emerge on this driver.
Hello Guys I would like to ask you a question. A friend of mine tried to update from 328 drivers to 381 his new wheel Clubsport Steering Wheel Carbon. During the firmware update it showed something Hex File failed and the update somehow stacked and nothing happened during this time. We tried to unplug the USB and plug it again (restart the wheel base) but then this light stacked and now the USB cannot be recognised neither to the port of the PC nor to a laptop. Can you find a solution please. Thanks a lot I am waiting for an answer
He says that he just needs to unstack his wheel. He is playing from PS4 and not from a pc
Can you please answer or tell me a way to communicate with the support??
Isn't the wheel in PS4 mode now? You probably want to put it into PC mode to have the wheel recognised in windows. (correct me if i am wrong)
If this aint working you can contact support on monday at first. They are also having weekend right now 😉
Installed driver and firmware in place of 346. I had com port errors when I tried it first time but it "took" on the second attempt. I played around with it for a couple of hours and went back to 346 to compare (346 updated without incident). Definately more information in 381 feelings.
I then updated to 381 again and again got constant com port errors when updating the motor firmware. Tried every available usb port. No joy.
I uninstalled the driver, restarted, re-installed the driver and the firmware update went in first time. So if anyone gets Com port errors or such like when updating motor firmware, try uninstalling, restarting, re-installing and attempting the flash again.
Edit: (I had tried 352 before but couldn't get it dialled in)
Thanks for answering but my base could not open at all after I disconnected it from the electrical outlet so something happened in it. I will contact with the support tomorrow. Thanks again to both of you!
did you try to switch to PC mode though? Jarno is right, the base seems to be in compatibility mode. In this mode the base is NOT recognized by the PC.
Yeah Sascha the pc mode was on, I mean the lead was red during the update, here the base's led is changing colors while it is updating..I have also a characteristic video of my base when it cannot open at all but I can upload it due to its extension..
Can't**
No messages I could see
Here is the log. I will try later today to use a different USB port to see if the behavior changes
@Marcel Pfister suggest me something for my own problem too if you can. Thanks!
Do you guys know maybe how much time it takes for Fanatec to answer to a support message? Thanks again!